Salvador da Bahia

The favelas of Salvador da Bahia, Brazil Shanty towns commonly found in Rio and Bahia, Brazil; these have become popular tourist attractions Vladimira Dvorakova / age fotostock;

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Like Rio, Salvador, in the 'Nordeste' (Northeast) region, the birthplace of Brazil, cannot be missed. This most African of Brazilian cities apparently has 365 churches! The city centre, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is divided into two parts. The 'Upper Town' is where the historic district of Pelourinho is located. It is a maze of steep little cobbled alleys lined with colonial houses painted in shades of pink, yellow, green, and blue. You may well come across capoeiristas and batucada groups performing in the street in this part of town.
Praça Terreiro de Jesus square has the 3 most famous churches in town. The biggest, the Catedral de Basilica, is considered a masterpiece of colonial baroque architecture. In the Maciel district, the Igreja São Francisco is famous for its interior gilding and towers of monochromatic azulejos tiles. Other must-see sites are the Franciscan Igreja da Ordem Terceira de São Francisco, which is designed in the plateresque style; the Igreja da Ordem Terceira do Carmo, the largest monastery in Salvador; and the Igreja Santa Tereza. Take the Lacerda Elevator down to the 'Lower Town' between the bay and the hill. This is where the business area is located. At the foot of the elevator, you will find the famous Mercado Modelo (Model Market), an old port-side customs building that has been transformed into a massive market selling arts and crafts. We preferred the local feel and ambience of the Feira de São Joaquim market, with its colourful stalls and voodoo healers! The Igreja Nosso Senhor do Bonfim is easy to recognise, with its rococo facade and garlands of coloured bulbs. It is one of the most venerated places of worship in Brazil, and its famous good-luck wrist ribbons are found just about everywhere and in every colour imaginable. The white Montserrat Fort has a commanding position overlooking the port and Bahia de Todos os Santos bay. In the evening, cafés, bars, and restaurants brighten up the Pelourinho. To escape the more touristic parts of town, we preferred the local feel of the Ribeira district for a cheap caipirinha and a delicious 'moqueca' stew as the sun sets over Bahia de Todos os Santos (All Saints' Bay).