The ruins on Hiva Oa Takaii's harsh look weighs heavy on visitors... Ralph Braumer / age fotostock;
The pae pae of Taaoa Upeke (5 miles away from Atuona) is well-known for its very large buildings, the site includes tohuas and, isolated in a giant banyan forest, some maraes conceal the dignitaries' remains: an absolute must-see. You can get to Oipona marae (in the north-east of the island, 1 and a half miles out of the village of Puamau) by boat, which is where Polynesia's tallest tikis stand; Takaii is nearly 8 ft high. You will also discover the tomb of a deity, guarded by two tikis, a tiki's head driven into the ground, staring at the sky, and the statue of a woman lying down. These sculptures bring to mind the gigantic moais of Easter Island.