San Cristobal de Las Casas gathers all the elements of a stantdard colonial town, as the buildings around the Zócalo prove it. But it remains Indian in its character, with curved tiled, low houses and the population dressed in shimmering traditional costumes. Roughly 7 miles away, San Juan Chamula is renowned for the syncretism of the Tzotzil Indians, a mixture of Christian beliefs and animist rites. Zapatista rebels, lead by Second in Command Marcos, use the forests of the area for shelter.