Balsamic Modena - Northern Italy

Modena. Up in her attic, Graziella is working amidst the numerous barrels. Lined up in rows of six or eight, in size order from the largest to the smallest and covered with a light cotton sheet, these small barrels have been in the family for hundreds of years. "They have been in the family for several generations", she says with the upmost respect. "Here, in this small barrel, the vinegar is more than 80 years old. A simple marvel!". It is warm in this attic, warm and dry. The air circulates through the slits made in the base of the roof. "Ah, delightful wind. We owe everything to the wind", she continues motioning the barrels. Not far from Parma. Alessandro is inexhaustible. Around him hundreds of ham joints are in their maturing process. As he lovingly covers them with a final layer of salt, he tells me of the ham's smooth surface, its intense flavour "...you know that slight hazelnut taste, that unique taste of melted fat...", he continues on the transparency of the rind, the white colour of the fat and most of all "Mamma Mia, look at this colour!!!" he points to the meat which is a deep shade of pink. Nowadays, these marvels are matured in air-conditioned cellars. In the old days they were matured in sheds also with slits in the roof. "Ah, gracious wind. We are ever so grateful to the wind, we owe it all to the wind..." he says closing his eyes, feeling the breeze on his damp forehead.

Parmigiano Reggiano