Located between the Save river and mount Medvednica (3,395 feet), Zagreb is the city of blue trams that slide through imposing buildings reminding you of Vienna or Budapest. There are, in fact, three Zagreb cities: the upper town "Gornji Grad" with its ancient monuments, the lower town "Donji Grad" built during the 19th century, and the new town built after 1945. On funicular or on foot, go to the high part of town and stroll around the small streets and on the small cobblestone squares, admire St Mark's church, the baroque palace of Ban and all the houses that have since become museums. You can walk down via the Radiceva to get to the cathedral, passing the Dolac market, which is very lively in the morning. To visit: the Museum of the City of Zagreb, located in the former Convent of the Poor Clares, as well as the Croatian Naive Art Museum and the Museum of Contemporary Art. Ilica street (more than 3 miles long) takes you right to Ban-Jelacic Square. This is where the heart of the lower city beats. It is also where most of the tramway lines lead to. Various shops, clothes, books, records and restaurants. You can walk around or use the tramway. To visit: Tkalciceva street and its cafés and terraces, the Maksimir park, Mirogoj cemetery. To do: An excursion to the thermal region of Zagorje, north of Zagreb, up to Varazdin, a beautiful baroque town.