The 4 star Baia di Ulisse was entirely renovated in 2008 and has certainly managed to keep itself young, both in terms of its decor and its furnishings, which demonstrate a certain olde worlde sophistication. It is clearly proud of its traditions and its wealthy lands. The owners of the Baia di Ulisse have tried to make the hotel feel like an elegantly-appointed private residence through the use of vases, ceramics, candelabras, antique furniture, large rugs and valuable paintings (have fun trying to pick out the original Guttuso sketches, among other things!). In the evenings, or when the after sun is it its least forgiving, you'll often find many of the guests taking refuge in the small lounge area, which is shared with the bar. Sitting comfortably on one of the red sofas arranged in a semi-circle around the television, with rugs on the floor and the lacquered wooden window full of carefully arranged ornaments, you'll soon feel right at home here. This is also one of the few Sicilian hotels to provide a computer corner with Internet access, though unfortunately, when we tried to get online, the system wasn't working very well. The bar adjoining the small lounge area opens on to an indoor area furnished with high tables and red chairs and a very appealing outdoor terrace overlooking the sea and the swimming pool. Sheltered from the sun by a large white parasol, the elegant wicker armchairs are conducive to one thing only: relaxation. Even those who love the pool and would usually prefer a good diving session, or even a swim, generally end up giving in to the relaxing surroundings of this hotel, where everything is geared towards peace and quiet: The comfortable wooden and white fabric loungers, rather than the usual plastic ones, the private pine forest that runs right down to the beach, and the path leading to it, which is edged with beds of colourful flowers. The amphitheatre is also set amid the trees, and despite its distance from the sea, the setting makes it a pleasant stroll. All sporting activities are organised on the beach.

This 4 star hotel has only 92 guest rooms and combines the elegance of a hotel with the services of a residence, without the unnecessary continuous entertainment. The rooms are housed in three two storey yellow buildings positioned alongside each other and running parallel to the sea. Along with a fourth building, they form a right angle harbouring a large terrace providing the perfect spot for relaxing in the shade. Unfortunately, only the 20 rooms in the first building have sea views, although almost all of the rooms have a balcony overlooking the flowers and olive trees of the inner gardens. The rooms at the hotel are almost all doubles, with the exception of the 18 triple rooms, 4 quadruple rooms and 4 suites, and feature traditional decor with elegant and slightly aged dark wooden furniture and red bedspreads that contrast with the brown tiling on the floors. The ambience here oozes class and comfort but without the unnecessary presence of a pretentious and inappropriate carpet. Despite being rather on the small side, the bathrooms are perfectly charming and feature small green tiles, though unfortunately the showers, with their plastic accordion doors, are certainly not the most stylish.

The restaurant at the Baia di Ulisse consists of three separate rooms - a small, more intimate one, a larger one usually used when buffets are served, as it has tables that can seat up to eight people and, finally, a medium-sized room designed for the general use of hotel guests. Service is provided at the table and guests are asked to choose their menu for the day at breakfast time, with a selection of three starters and three main courses available daily. Whether you go for the risotto, the pasta or the soup, a meat dish or a fish dish, all the meals prepared by the chef here are based on traditional regional cuisine (which has hardly changed). This can be considered a good thing, given the quality and excellence of Sicilian cuisine. The portions are generous and the cellar contains some good wines produced using traditional regional processes, something that we and the rest of the guests at the hotel clearly appreciated. Buffets are also put on at the request of the general public, with the restaurant at the Baia di Ulisse opening its doors to guests who are not staying at the hotel but who would nevertheless like the opportunity to sample the cuisine it serves.

The downside of the beach is that it is quite a way from the main building of the hotel. Having said that, the trail leading to it is a very pleasant one. It takes you through the hotel's private pine forest, along a paved path surrounded by intensely-coloured flowers, and down a set of steps made of travertine blocks, surrounded by the intoxicating aroma of the maritime pine. Those who don't take the heat too well will be pleased to know that there is some relief halfway down in the form of a small lounge area in the shade of the trees, complete with elegant wicker armchairs and beautiful glass-topped tables. Don't worry, there is also a shuttle service available at all times upon request. On the beach, guests staying at the hotel are provided with two deck chairs and a parasol per room on presentation of their club card. The sand itself isn't the finest, but the gradient into the sea is nice and gentle. You might also be interested to know that buying the club card will also give you free access to various sporting activities, such as beach volleyball, petanque and canoeing.

Despite operating on a board basis that is somewhere between that of a hotel and a residence, the Baia di Ulisse attracts a national and international clientele. Even though in low season this clientele tends to lean towards the upper age brackets, the hotel is attentive to the well-being of families and children, particularly during high season, when a mini-club managed by the entertainment team is available to entertain children for two hours in the morning and again in the afternoon. Only small dogs weighing less than 4.5kg are accepted at the hotel.