You'll feel right at home at the Montenapoleone. The small gardens sheltered from the wind, the arbours leading on from one another, the small courtyards lined with low stone walls, patiently piled up by generations of farmers: sooner or later you arrive at the superb swimming pool, also perfectly sheltered from the sea breeze. There is nothing missing: the golf course is just over a mile away and the clay pigeon shooting pitch not much further. The beach is at the end of the road, and mountain bikes are available to guests. Indeed, the region is a paradise for cyclists, with hundreds of miles of small, well marked trails. The good thing is that the Italians know the roads here are highly frequented by cyclists and thus exercise a degree of caution. More than normal. There is a room set aside for massages. The reception is overflowing with local products, all organic of course. The masseria specialises in cooking classes; a good reason to stay an extra night so that you can finally get the hang of cooking spaghetti or making a Neapolitan sauce.