The guest rooms are fairly large and cool, as they are protected by ancient thick walls, which are a formidable obstacle for the free Wi-Fi. In terms of decor, the old-fashioned rooms aren't ugly, but let's just say that they show their 20 years even though things have improved since then, especially for a Relais & Châteaux hotel. The bathrooms are large, with a window, and are well equipped (bathtub and often a separate shower). Bathrobes and slippers are included in the amenities. Everything is in perfect condition, just not from the latest decor salon. A television, a desk and real antique furniture that could use a more modern backdrop. That said, let's be reasonable: these are beautiful rooms that would appeal to a lot of people. It's just that we expected a little better from this luxury hotel. The best (and the most expensive) rooms are the Executive Suites with their private patio.

As is often the case in period farmhouses, there is a large tower that is a vestige from an era when it was better to know who was coming well in advance. Here there is a also row of small white buildings interspersed with arches and topped with small bell towers that are reminiscent of Arab-Muslim architecture. Add to this the village square, with its flat stone floor, and the local 'chianche' on which flies the Italian flag in the blue sky. All in all it somewhat resembles a Mexican mission. The lounges are scattered among large rooms with period furnishing (the owner is an antique dealer and it shows). The fireplaces must have seen so many logs burned during so many winters. Paintings adorn the walls, frescoes have appeared with the various restorations, and small, often exceptional, statues are hidden in alcoves in the corners of the thick walls. The restaurant overlooks the pool (20m long). At the end of a walkway covered with rose bushes is a huge well-being area with a large indoor pool, a gym and massage rooms (with olive oil, obviously). Guests can use the illuminated tennis courts and the jogging track. Behind the small, charming hotel exterior hides an excellent resort. We would have given it an exceptional rating if only its pool area had been bigger.

The food is good, local and organic where possible, and served under Russian painter Kandinsky's canvasses with a view of the olive trees. The restaurant also specialised in cooking classes. Half a day or more. Ideal for mastering the art of cooking spaghetti al dente. Guests can find snacks for lunch at the pool as well as on the beach, which belongs to the same owner.

There is a superb private beach 6 miles away, just next to the Peschiera Hotel, undoubtedly the most exclusive seaside hotel. A shuttle service to the beach is available on request.

Outside, the olive trees are hundreds of years old, but inside, at the reception itself, stands a thousand-year old olive tree. In fact, the hotel is built around its trunk. It must surely have seen the days of Frederick II and perhaps even Charlemagne, so it couldn't be razed to the ground just to build a hotel. At least, not here, in this region with a long history of civilisation. The Melograno was originally a masseria (fortified farmhouse) built in the 17th century. It was transformed into a hotel in 1993. In twenty years, the garden has had time to flourish and cover everything with clusters of jasmine, bougainvillea and hibiscus. A real pleasure for your senses of sight, smell and hearing, enhanced by the birds singing.