In Bukhara, enter the citadel - the Ark, the old fortified residence of the khans of Bukhara, walk across the paved courtyard, take a look at the emir's marble throne and visit the crowning hall. Opposite the citadel, admire the superb buildings - Bala-Khauz - and the twenty painted columns of the mosque, topped with stalagmite capitals. In the Kirov park, go and have a look at Ismael Samani's mausoleum - a 10th century innovator. A little further north-east, Tchchma Ayyub's mausoleum, topped with a cone-shaped dome, stands close to a kolkhozian market. In the town centre, in a maze of narrow lanes, admire several medersas, such as Amir Alim Khan and Ulugbeg, and linger in the bazaars, then go and relax in a 16th century hammam.