Chinatown, a city within a city

Created in the 1850s, it was originally a stopover for Chinese immigrants fleeing the many problems in China at the time. Famines, rebellions, political tensions, citizens were leaving the country by the thousands in search of a better life. And San Francisco's new prosperity thanks to trade and gold mining sounded like a new beginning in a young country.

The Americans took a dim view of their arrival and tried to exclude them through discriminatory laws and repressive regulations. Gradually, the Chinese settled in a certain part of the city, now known as "Chinatown". Today, these laws no longer exist and the Chinese community is very involved in the life of the city. In 2011, the first mayor of Chinese origin was elected.

There are many entrances to Chinatown, but the most classic and impressive is the Dragon Gate. You'll find it to the south on the corner of Grant Avenue and Bush Street. Comprising 3 pagodas, it is reminiscent of traditional Chinese village gates.

Once through the door, it's not unpleasant to wander the streets without really trying to get anywhere, just letting yourself be carried away by the atmosphere. Don't hesitate to push open the doors of shops, grocery shops, Chinese pharmacies and restaurants. Discovering and being surprised are the key words to appreciate this district. The Stockton Street market is a must, offering some of the freshest and cheapest produce in the area. It can get very crowded on Saturday afternoons, so try to avoid the crowds on another day.

Another obligatory and relaxing stop is Portsmouth Square. Considered to be the "heart of Chinatown", it is along this square that the district was born. The United States flag was first raised here in 1846. Today, it serves as a gathering place for the community, who meet there to practise Tai-chi or play mah jong, often early in the morning. Later in the day, chess lovers gather here. Fancy a game?

Did you know that the little fortune cookies* served in Chinese restaurants around the world came from the ovens of San Francisco? More specifically, from the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory. They were first produced in 1962 and quickly became very popular. Given out at the end of a meal, these cakes can contain messages such as sayings of wisdom, lottery numbers or random statements that are supposed to predict the future. Visits are organised to see the manufacturing process and learn more.

One last visit to end the day: the Chinese Cultural Centre. Founded in 1963, it is the oldest organisation dedicated to documenting Sino-American history. You can see exhibitions, an art gallery and handicrafts. Publications and public and educational programmes are also developed. It's the place to go to learn more about the history that links China and the United States, and a great way to end your visit to Chinatown.