The Cours Saleya runs parallel to the Quai des Etats-Unis, as an extension of the Promenade des Anglais. This is a very strategic part of Vieux Nice, and for centuries it has been one of the city's most important thoroughfares. Originally renowned for its flower market, which welcomed wholesalers and then private customers every day, this area is now bustling with activity from morning to night.
Bubbling with activity, Vieux Nice is home to a historic market every day of the year. The Cours Saleya market, which enjoys the charm of the city and the calm of the seaside, attracts tourists and loyal locals alike. Flowers, fruit, vegetables, socca, antiques and bunches of dried lavender can be found on the stalls of dozens of vendors. Once the haunt of wholesalers who stocked up on tulips, roses and hyacinths and transported them across Europe, it's now a living place in its own right and central to the city of Nice. Restaurants, bars and souvenir shops share the Cours Saleya with the market, under the Mediterranean sun. After a bit of shopping, a good meal and a visit to the ponchettes, head for the beach or the hill of the Château to continue your stroll.
A course that's all about craftsmanship...
Shopkeepers, farmers and craftsmen supplied their finest arrangements, which were sold all over Europe, before supplying the locals later in the morning.
Today, the markets have been separated and private individuals can take full advantage of the historic space on a daily basis. In summer, tourists flock to the market to discover the stalls and the night-time version of the market at the end of the day, but the essence is still the same: authenticity, locality and tradition.
A daily market of 1001 discoveries
The best way to discover Nice's art of living in an instant is to take a morning stroll around the Cours Saleya market. From Tuesday to Sunday, stalls selling flowers, fruit, vegetables and local specialities share this entirely pedestrianised area.
An explosion of flavours, a multitude of colours and a myriad of smells await visitors every day, as they are greeted by loyal traders who have established their habits here. It's impossible to resist the temptation of socca or pan bagnat at one of the many stands that have mastered this local culinary art. The best thing to do is to take the snack away and enjoy it on the legendary blue chairs of the Promenade des Anglais, just a block away.
On Mondays, the second-hand market takes over the Cours. Antiques, collectors' items and one-off pieces take pride of place on the tables of the dealers, so you're sure to come across some great finds!
The ponchettes, typical dwellings of the Cours
The " ponchettes", which run along the Cours Saleya, all the way down the hill to the Château, are small historic houses in the district. They are easily recognisable for their two distinctive features: a single storey and flat roofs. Enjoying the seaside in a private space overlooking the quays is the great luxury of the inhabitants of these little houses! For a closer look, head to rue des Ponchettes.
Sleep in a ponchette!
Typical Ponchette by the sea
On Rue des Ponchettes, this pretty house facing the sea can accommodate up to 10 people in its 6 air-conditioned bedrooms.The best places to eat in the area
A number of restaurants have set up their kitchens in these dwellings. If you want to keep up with the hustle and bustle of the market while enjoying the sea air, the terrace of the Casa Leya restaurant and its Italian flavours await you! The yellow of the sun and the blue of the sea provide a friendly setting for this refined yet affordable cuisine. Pizzas, pastas, salads, or fish cooked in the spirit of la dolce vita, are enjoyed facing the sea.
📍 Address: 36 Cours Saleya, 06300 Nice
⏰ O pening times: 11.30am - 2.30pm / 6.30pm - 10pm (30 minutes extra at weekends)
If you want to enjoy a glass of wine with a platter of cold meats as the sun goes down, the place to go is Le Sunset brasserie! Between tapas, seafood, salads and burgers, the choice is wide in this privileged setting facing the palm trees, to the rhythm of the sound of the waves.
📍 Address: 69 Quai des Etats-Unis, 06300 Nice
⏰ O pening times : 08h00 - 00h00
Italian gastronomy meets seafood at Di Più. Seafood spaghetti, grilled squid, burrata or tuna and avocado tartare fill the sunny plates, in a modern setting that has become a must-try in the city.
📍 Address: 85 Quai des Etats-Unis, 06300 Nice
⏰ O pening times : 12.00 - 14.30 (30 minutes extra at weekends) / 19.00 - 23.00
Where to sleep near the Cours Saleya?
Hotel Beau Rivage 4* - Nice
Just 5 minutes from the Cours Saleya, this 4-star hotel has pretty, comfortable rooms and even a private beach!Practical information for the Cours Saleya market
📍 Address:
Cours Saleya, 06300 Nice
⏰ Opening hours:
06:00 - 13:30 Tuesday to Sunday
07:00 - 18:00 on Mondays for the second-hand goods market.
🚗 Where to park?
The Saleya car park, at 36 Cours Saleya, is ideally located for a stroll to the market.
🚌 How do I get there by public transport?
With line 1 of the tramway, stop at the Opéra - Vieille Ville stop and then walk for five short minutes.