Discover the heart of Lisbon: visit the Baixa, Chiado and Bairro Alto districts

Located right in the centre of Lisbon, these three suburbs are a great way to soak up the atmosphere of the Portuguese capital. Wake up on the banks of the Tagus, passing through the Place du Commerce and its immense Arc de Triomphe. Enjoy a shopping break in the commercial streets of Chiado, a district combining traditional architecture with trendy boutiques. In the evening, take to the skies and head for Bairro Alto, a not-to-be-missed spot for going out and enjoying the Lisbon nightlife. It's an easy walk that will keep you busy all day. But Lisbon has more than one trick up its sleeve, and can also be explored by public transport, particularly the emblematic yellow tram. Put on your best walking shoes and set off for a day to discover these legendary districts!

The rua Augusta pedestrian street overlooking the Arch of the same name, Lisbon, Portugal.

- © Janis Maleckis / Shutterstock

A shaky alarm clock!

Before it became the colourful city with its many lively districts that we know today, Lisbon was built around a sad past that makes it even more fascinating. It was on the morning of 1 November 1755 that Lisbon's nightmare began. An earthquake followed by a tsunami engulfed the city, destroying many of its monuments forever.

The Baixa and Chiado districts were the hardest hit, particularly the former, which was completely reorganised by the Marquis of Pombal. It now follows the pattern of a grid plan, with the streets at an impeccable right angle. Each street represented a trade. The rua da Prata (street of silver), the rua do ouro (street of gold), the rua de sapateiros (street of shoemakers)... The Chiado district still has some ruins, notably the Carmelite convent.

The Carmo Convent - church destroyed after the earthquake, Lisbon, Portugal.

- © Tupungato / Shutterstock

Another fire struck the heart of Lisbon on 25 August 1988, causing extensive damage, particularly in the streets of Carmo, Nova do Almada, Assunçao and do Crucifixo. The district was subsequently rebuilt and restored to its original state by the architect Alvaro Siza Vieira, who made a point of preserving the architectural style.

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The Baixa district, a morning of culture and tourism

With its central location, the district is easily accessible by metro from the "Baixa/Chiado" stop, or on foot if you are lucky enough to be staying in the area. You can also take the famous tram line 28, which stops at "rua Augusta".

The Place du Commerce (Praça do Comércio) offers an exceptional view of the city and the sea to start your visit. It is one of the most important and certainly the most beautiful squares in Lisbon. It is surrounded by sumptuous buildings with arcades and is in line with the imposing Arch of Augusta Street (Arco Triunfal da Rua Augusta), located on the north side and on the banks of the Tagus, the river that runs alongside the city. In the centre of the square stands a magnificent equestrian statue of Joseph I, the former Portuguese king, sculpted in bronze.

Arc de Rua Agusta in Lisbon, Portugal.

- © Borges Samuel / 123RF

Take to the skies to admire the beautiful Baixa and the Place du Commerce from the top of the Arc de Triomphe, where the promise of a panoramic view more than 30 metres above the ground is fulfilled. All you have to do is take the lift (phew!). Continue your exploration at the Lisboa Story Centre museum, located under the arcades to the east of the square, where you can (re)discover the history of Lisbon in a fun and interactive way. Something to delight children and adults alike!

La vue depuis l'Arco da Rua Augusta avec les bâtiments de la Praça do Comércio à Baixa dans la ville de Lisbonne.

- © amnat30 / Shutterstock

As well as the cultural aspect, the district is full of shopping streets, particularly shoe shops. There's something for everyone, at unbeatable prices. You're bound to find something to suit you! The busiest is the famous rua Augusta, which links the Place du Rossio (Praça do Rossio) to the Place du Commerce. This is an exclusively pedestrianised street, paved with small, irregularly-shaped black and white cobblestones known as the "Portuguese calçada". The shopping offer is rich and diversified, with big names juxtaposed with old shops. The street is also full of restaurants with terraces. The whole of Lisbon's culture mixes with tourism.

For lunch, we strongly recommend you try one of Lisbon's must-try Portuguese specialities: Bifana. It's a loaf of bread filled with pork** marinated** in a white wine sauce with garlic, bay leaves and paprika. It's simply delicious, and the best is to be found at "As Bifanas do Afonso"! This little restaurant with its unpretentious shop front is the place to go for a sandwich and a cold beer in Lisbon. What's more, the prices are unbeatable: the classic sandwich costs €2.50. You can eat in (stand-up) or take away. Don't hesitate to sit on the nearby terrace and order a drink to eat more comfortably.

Where to stay in the Baixa district?

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The Chiado district, between history and shopping

Change atmosphere and discover the Chiado district, just a stone's throw from the Baixa. Inherited from its literary and political past, this district is now a meeting place for artists and the heart of Lisbon's intellectual activity. Luxury boutiques have taken up residence here, and it has also become the place to go shopping.

View of Lisbon's Chiado district.

- © amnat30 / Shutterstock

The best way to get to Chiado is to take the legendary historic Santa Justa lift, also known as theElevador do Carmo. It is located on the corner of Aurea and Santa Justa streets. Built in wrought iron in a style reminiscent of the Eiffel Tower, it offers a 360° view of the city from a height of 45 metres. An exceptional monument not to be missed!

👉 Practical information:

The tower is open every day from 7am to 10pm in winter and until 11pm in summer. Access to the belvedere is possible from 8.30am to 8.30pm. The going rate is around €6 per adult for a round trip, with a supplement of €1.50 to enjoy the view from the belvedere.

Editor's note

This emblematic Lisbon monument attracts huge crowds, so you'll have to be patient to get there.

L'ascenseur de Santa Justa, Lisbon, Portugal.

- © Chanclos / Shutterstock

Once you've reached the top floor, you can explore the Carmelite Convent, just a few minutes from the lift, on the Largo do Carmo square, where you can also take a refreshing break on the terrace. In spring, the flowering trees offer a poetic spectacle worthy of an impressionist painting. The convent once housed an ancient Gothic church, certainly the largest in the city.

Despite its airy infrastructure and the absence of a roof, the building has a romantic atmosphere and is still extraordinary to behold. It's hard to imagine how this monument could have withstood such a violent earthquake. The walls and arches survived both the earthquake and the tsunami, and bear witness to an unrivalled construction technique.

The ruins of the church house the Carmelite Archaeological Museum, the oldest in Portugal. It comprises 5 rooms, the first of which is devoted to prehistory and has the immense privilege of housing an Egyptian mummy in room 4. A mixture of items recalling the history of the city and precious medieval pieces.

Ruins of the Gothic church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel (Igreja do Carmo), Lisbon, Portugal.

- © Rolf E. Staerk / Shutterstock

On leaving the museum, head towards rue Garrett and then down a little further to arrive at the sumptuous café "A Brasileira", a Chiado institution. Originally, the shop sold Brazilian coffee, which at the time was not very well received and was even avoided. Following the Revolution of 1910 and the proclamation of the Portuguese Republic, it became a meeting place for the intellectuals of the day. Since then, it has always been frequented by writers and artists, notably the poet Fernando Pessoa, whose statue can be seen outside.

© Nito500 / 123RF

Where to stay in the Chiado district?

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The Bairro Alto district, a great place to party

As night falls, the bustle leaves the streets of Chiado for the Bairro Alto district, which, as its name suggests, is located just above it. This two-faceted district is sleepy in the morning and starts to wake up in the afternoon, to feast in the evening. The quiet, colourful streets, reminiscent of a peaceful village, give way to bars and restaurants.

View of the Bairro Alto district in Lisbon's historic center.

- © PIXEL to the PEOPLE / Shutterstock

Practical information

🚌 How do I get there?

Nothing could be easier to get to Bairro Alto, take the colourful mascot so coveted in Lisbon: the historic Tramway 28!

Impossible to miss with its yellow dress, it crosses the city from East to West and warns you of its arrival with a recognisable sound signal. It's a great way to see Lisbon in a different way, without getting too tired!

The tram stops at "Chiado", Paiva de Andrade street and will drop you off at "Santa Catarina", Calçada do Combro, 3 stops later. Really convenient!

👛 Ticket price: 3 Euros.

Editor's note

To kick-start your evening, you can head for the Miradouro Sao Pedro de Alcantara, which offers sublime views of central Lisbon and San Jorge Castle. Going there in the evening allows you to enjoy thesunset over the city, giving it a golden hue. A magnificent sight!

Where can you take a gourmet break?

Head for The Insolito. If you decide to extend the pleasure over an aperitif, head to this incredible place offering one of the prettiest views of the city in a setting inspired by Alice in Wonderland. Indulge in their cocktails and refined tapas.

For dinner, we recommend "Alto de Bairro", a friendly tapas bar where the food is served generously. It is located at travessa das Merces (6A) and has around fifteen tables; it is a small restaurant but home cooking is guaranteed. If you like sardines, we strongly recommend you try them, they are excellent.

Editor's note

Don't forget that Lisbon is full of surprises. Get lost in the streets as you please. The historic quarters are made up of alleyways and cobbled streets where you can take your best photographs whatever the time of day!

by Anthony Amarantinis
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