Du Maurier’s Cornwall: Discover the place that inspired Manderley

“Last night I dreamt I went to Manderley again.” are words that immediately conjure images of a misty night, and a mansion steeped in darkness, mystery and an unshakeable sense of gloom; a haunting opening sentence to what turns out to be an equally haunting novel. Daphne du Maurier’s Rebecca is a 1938 Gothic novel that is heavily inspired by the author’s connection to Cornwall and her experiences at Menabilly, a mansion near a coastal Cornish town called Fowey.

The obscure allure and haunting pull of the fictional Manderley are the result of Du Maurier’s time spent in the historic estate and in her beloved Cornwall. The essence of the area that du Maurier was able to so masterfully capture in her work is still very present today, so let us take you along as we retrace the places she found creativity in.

Misty Cornish sights

- © Tim Knight / Shutterstock

Menabilly

“The peace of Manderley. The quietude and the grace. Whoever lived within its walls, whatever trouble there was and strife, however much uneasiness and pain, no matter what tears were shed, what sorrows borne, the peace of Manderley could not be broken or the loveliness destroyed.”- Daphne du Maurier, Rebecca (1938).

One can only imagine that the same can be said of the place that inspired the mythical Manderley, Menabilly. A stunning old estate; the manor has been passed down through the Rashleigh family for generations, from the 16th century to today. Daphne du Maurier first came upon the mansion in her teenage years, and was able to have it leased to her by C.S. Rashleigh in the 1940s. The author would make it her home for twenty years, until it was returned to the family in 1969. 

The house is Georgian, built over an earlier Elizabethan house. The manor is surrounded by enchanting woodland and a farmhouse. Today, the grounds are private as the estate continues to be a family home. This means visitors cannot visit the house, but the Menabilly area is well worth a visit and you can even get a glimpse of the house from certain vantage points.

The best spot to see the house is as you walk up Gribben Head. This walk allows you not only to see Menabilly House very clearly, but also Gribben Tower and Fowey in the foreground. It’s a stunning view and gives walkers an idea of what Daphne du Maurier would have been looking out onto as she sat writing her novels. Menabilly in general is a fantastic place to walk around, as it offers a mixture of countryside walks with stunning ocean views, as well as delightful coastal treks, or, if you prefer to relax, you can head to the beach and enjoy some of Cornwall’s quieter sands. One of our favourite itineraries that truly takes you through the best of what the area has to offer is as follows: start at Menabilly Barton and head to Polridmouth, and then up to Gribben Head towards Polkerris.

Fowey

This picturesque Cornish town is where du Maurier spent a lot of her time, both as a child, and then into adulthood and where she lived during the war, before moving to Menabilly. 

Fowey Museum is a wonderful place to start learning about the author’s time in the town, they hold a small collection of artefacts and books that illustrate this. The museum is open from Monday to Friday from Easter until September and admission costs £1. 

Continue your exploration of Fowey by simply walking through the town and getting a sense of local life and looking at the beautiful old buildings. Head to Shrew Books, a delightful independent bookstore located on South Street to purchase your own copy of Rebecca to commemorate your trip.  

Finish off your day by heading to the beach and walking along the stunning coastline. If you’re in want of a beach day, or just an ideal sunset spot, look no further than Readymoney Beach which is simply breathtaking. 

Getting there

It’s a relatively straightforward drive to Fowey, which is also the easiest and most convenient way to get there. Starting from the M5 in Devon, the Fowey Estuary is easily reached via either the A30 or the A38/A390. From West Cornwall the area is best reached via the A390.

Getting to Fowey by public transport is a little more tricky but you can find out more about that here

Where to stay

We recommend staying in Fowey, to really get a sense of local life and to have the perfect base to explore the area. The Harbour Hotel is a fantastic choice for stunning coastal views of Cornwall, and being in a grand house, somewhat reminiscent of the elusive Manderley. A veritable hub of peace along the Cornish coast, this is an ideal place to enjoy the very best of what Cornwall has to offer.

Harbour Hotel Fowey Cornwall
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Harbour Hotel Fowey

A lovely hotel located in Fowey.
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£125 /night
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Editor’s tip

Don’t forget to watch Hitchcock’s 1940 film adaptation of Rebecca.The film is a hypnotic and hauntingly dreamy take on du Maurier’s tale of romance turned to psychodrama which manages to portray the dramatic complexities of each character while showcasing the project’s gothic vision earning the film that year’s Academy Award for Best Picture and Best Cinematography. Joan Fontaine plays the wide-eyed unnamed protagonist who falls in love and marries Laurence Olivier’s charismatic and enigmatic Maxim De Winter. A true standout in the film is Judith Anderson’s blisteringly memorable performance as Mrs Danvers, creating a complicated, and subtly horrifying character. The film also marked the start of the legendary collaboration between Alfred Hitchcock and producer David O. Selznick. A true masterpiece that will only enrich your trip down to Cornwall upon viewing.     

by Val HANCOCK
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