Connecting with your inner Amélie: a local’s guide to summer in Montmartre

There’s nothing quite like daydreaming about meandering about the empty streets of Montmartre on a hot Summer day in the dead of Winter. Take your time to bask in the sunshine while sipping a cold glass of wine at a cafe, stroll through the empty streets and familiarise yourself with the distinct, almost village-like architecture that serves as the backdrop for Jean-Pierre Jeunet’s delightfully eccentric 2001 film Amélie. The neighbourhood is brimming with curiosities, whimsical street art and charming narrow streets that exude individuality and make for the perfect setting for wandering about spreading small acts of kindness like Amélie herself.  

And truthfully, there’s no better time to take full advantage of everything the city’s quirkiest neighbourhood has to offer than during the hot Summer months, when it is quiet and many Parisians are away. 

View of the Sacré Coeur, Montmartre, Paris

- © JeanLucIchard / Shutterstock

Visit the photo booth on rue des trois frères

If you’ve seen Amélie, you’ll know the title character has a particular affinity to photobooths, looking for the scraps of discarded bits of photographs, wondering why their owners didn’t want them. Head to the photobooth on 53, Rue des Trois Frères for your own Amélie moment. Nestled in a solid oak and glass display case, this popular photo booth is a must on anyone’s Montmartre itinerary, and at 4€ a strip, the set of four black and white photos make for an ideal souvenir from your time in the city.The earlier you go, the better, as the booth can get crowded.    

You’ll also see Au Marché de la Butte, also known as Maison Collignon’s fruit and veggie shop in Amélie just up the street from the photo booth. 

The photo booth takes 50 cents, 1€ and 2€ coins, as well contactless cards. 

Visit the Musée de Montmartre

One of the city’s most underrated museums, there’s an enchanting aura about the Musée de Montmartre which celebrates the neighbourhood’s unique history. Established in 1960, the museum is located not far from the Sacré Coeur Basilica in one of Montmartre’s oldest buildings: La Maison du Bel Air. The house was a creative hotspot for many artists including Auguste Renoir, Suzanne Valadon, and even Maurice Utrillon. Today, the museum features a beautiful permanent collection, a recreation of Suzanne Valadon’s atelier and picture perfect gardens that make it obvious to visitors how this place managed to capture the imagination and fascination of so many renowned artists. 

The museum is open daily from 10am to 7pm and features the Cafe Renoir where guests can have a delightful sit down meal after enjoying their visit. Find out about ticket fares on their designated webpage

Be sure to keep an eye out for the various temporary exhibitions they put on so you can plan your visit accordingly. 

Take a quiet stroll through some of the area’s most beautiful streets

The beauty and charm of these streets almost makes you forget you’re still technically in central Paris. The area’s almost village-like feel, especially in the summer, makes for a completely different experience of Parisian life. While we recommend you ditch Google Maps altogether and get lost in the hilly streets, there are some spots you simply can’t miss. 

The first is the Rue de L’Abreuvoir which offers an astonishing view of the neighbourhood, with the highest points of the Sacré Coeur peeking out just from behind the buildings at the top of the street. Place Dalida is nearby and definitely worth a stop to reflect on the incredible life and talents of one of France’s most legendary musical figures. Rue de L’Abreuvoir eventually merges into Rue Cortot, another dazzling street with unique old houses that as a whole make for a street that almost looks pulled straight out of a fairytale. On your walk, keep an eye out for the Clos de Montmartre, Paris’ oldest vineyard which grows on the northern flank of la Butte and from which wine is still produced today. Opposite the vineyard, you'll notice the orange facade of the Lapin Agile cabaret, an iconic Montmartre landmark and infamous meeting point of criminals and artists alike. 

Watch the sunset atop the Butte and sit by the Sacré Coeur

No summer’s day in Montmartre is complete without watching the sun set from atop the butte, overlooking the entire city, with the Sacré Coeur right behind you. A recurring spot in Amélie, the stairs that lead up to the Sacré Coeur are perfect to sit on, take in the views and try to spot and name as many iconic Paris landmarks as you can. Bring a snack and something to drink and you’re set for a perfect setup to say goodbye to the sun for the day. 

From the dog park to the left of the Sacré Coeur Basilica when facing it, there’s a dog park from which you can see the Eiffel Tower if you want to catch a glimpse of the “iron lady” at golden hour and sunset. 

Be aware that pickpockets do circulate around this area a lot, so keep an eye out for your belongings and potential scams. 

Take the bus!

If you don’t have time to wistfully meander about the neighbourhood, hop on bus line 40, the only bus to cross Montmartre. The bus takes you all around the area and you get to see so much of it, so even though it might sound silly, if you’re in a bit of a rush, it’s a wonderful alternative. Single trip tickets cost 2,10€ and can be purchased in a metro station nearby such as Abbesses or Pigalle.

Our favourite food spots

All that walking around is bound to leave you feeling at least a little peckish. Here are some of our favourite food spots in the area. 

Bouillon Pigalle: a popular and widely beloved spot, the Bouillon Pigalle is an iconic and affordable eatery that serves up classic French dishes for unbeatable prices. The decor is classic and atmospheric and the reasonable prices mean you can indulge without hurting the bank.  

Le Petit Moulin: located on 17 Rue Tholozé, this tiny bistro offers everything French cuisine does best: incredible and hearty meals, generous portions and a guaranteed good time. This neighbourhood classic is THE place to get better acquainted with French culture through its cooking. 

Le Petit Parisien: this wonderful tiny restaurant is located on 28 Rue Tholozé and is full of charm and personality. The decor is made up of surprising little keepsakes and random collectibles that give it an irresistibly eccentric mismatched atmosphere, perfect for keeping up those Amélie vibes. 

Classique: located in the 9th arrondissement, just a short walk from the Sacré Coeur Basilica, Classique is an excellent cocktail bar that serves some wonderfully unique creations that will leave your taste buds wanting more. Atmospheric and intimate, it’s the perfect spot for a date or a catch up with friends. 

Our favourite hotel in montmartre

Le Relais Montmartre is a wonderful hotel located in the very heart of the neighbourhood. The rooms are comfortable and clean and the staff are kind and knowledgeable. It’s an ideal place to stay to make the most of the area and get a sense of local life. 

Le Relais Montmartre Paris
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Le Relais Montmartre

A lovely hotel located in Montmartre, Paris.
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£129 /night
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Editor’s note

Montmatre is a very hilly area so be prepared to climb a lot of stairs and walk up multiple hills during your time exploring so wear comfortable shoes and bring a bottle of water. After all, hydration is key, people!

by Val HANCOCK
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