A getaway to the Princes' Islands

Be in Istanbul and spend a day by the sea? It's possible. Head to the Princes' Islands for an excellent, relaxing getaway. The Princes' Islands ("Adalar" in Turkish for the locals) are an archipelago of nine islands in the Sea of Marmara... real relaxation spots in Istanbul. Only four islands are inhabited and open to visitors: Kinaliada, Burgazada, Heybeliada and Büyükada. They are accessible by ferry from Besiktas, Eminönü and Kabataş on the European side, and Kadiköy and Bostanci on the Asian side. As cars and motorbikes are not allowed on any of them, the Princes' Islands offer a peaceful haven away from the hustle and bustle of Istanbul.

They owe their name to the fact that during the Byzantine period, the imperial family and disgraced aristocrats were exiled to the monasteries. They then became the favourite weekend destination of the Ottoman aristocracy. On the programme: a bucolic outing and a journey back in time.

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The Princes' Islands (Adalar in Turkish) are part of the megalopolis of Istanbul and float in the Sea of Marmara. Historically, the islands served as a place of exile, before becoming the ideal holiday destination for wealthy Istanbulites. Why do they have this name?

The islands refer to the many emperors, empresses and other nobility who were exiled there during the Byzantine period. As an anecdote, the Soviet revolutionary Trotsky took refuge on one of these islands for 4 years.

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In the 19th century, sumptuous villas were built by Ottoman high society.

This haven of peace and greenery stands in stark contrast to the hustle and bustle of the city. Here, silence reigns. All motor vehicles are banned and the locals mainly use bicycles, buses and electric taxis to get around. The only sounds you'll hear are bicycle bells.

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Time passes very slowly, to the rhythm of the boats that drop off travellers and residents. As mentioned in the introduction, not all nine Princes Islands are accessible. Only four islands are worth a visit and are served by ferry. The four largest are Kinaliada, Burgazada, Heybeliada and Büyükada. The ferry journey between Istanbul and these islands takes about an hour.

The archipelago represents a fine cultural and ethnic mix. Burgazada was a Greek fishing village and Heybeliada was home to the Greek bourgeoisie. Büyükada was popular with Juis and Europeans. As for Kinaliada, it was once home to the Armenian bishops. Synagogues, churches and mosques are all to be found here.

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A one-day getaway is more than enough to visit these islands, but for more serenity, we recommend you go during the week, as they are overrun by locals at weekends.

The island of Büyükada

The largest and most popular of the Princes' Islands: Büyükada. Not far from the quay, the famous Çankaya street is within easy walking distance. It is lined with Victorian-style wooden villas. The island's star attraction is the Greek Orthodox monastery of Aya Yorgi (St George) at the top of Büyükada hill. From here, you can admire a breathtaking view of the archipelago and even Istanbul. On another hill nestles one of the largest wooden structures, which used to be an abandoned Greek orphanage. The building was in use until the 20th century.

Highlights:

-Tour the island by electric bus

-Hire a bike for a great ride around the island

-Explore the leafy lanes and beautiful Victorian houses

-Visit the monastery of Saint Georges

-Relax on one of the many private beaches

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The island of Heybeliada

The second largest island in the archipelago, Heybeliada is the most unspoilt thanks to its lush vegetation. Like its neighbour, Büyükada, the island hides a number of historical treasures, including beautiful wooden houses and a Greek Orthodox monastery. The Halki Institute of Orthodox Theology, also known as the Halki Seminary, has been closed since 1971. Backed by an 11th-century Orthodox monastery, this religious establishment is a powerful symbol of the Ecumenical Patriarchate.

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Highlights:

-Hire a bike for a great ride around the island

-Explore the charming Rue Lozan Zaferi with its elegant houses

-Visit the Greek Orthodox School of Theology

-Take a look at the huge building of the Turkish Naval Academy

"The Princes' Islands are magical, very peaceful and offer a real breath of fresh air away from Istanbul. It's an ideal place to relax on a beach, go for a walk or cycle ride, or have a picnic."

Emma

The island of Burgazada

Less well known than its big sister Büyükada, the island is just as charming and bucolic. The island was once a holiday resort for the Greek, Armenian and Jewish minorities, who built beautiful summer residences. People come here mainly for its Orthodox church and, above all, for a country walk among pine and fruit trees. The rocky landscapes are reminiscent of the beauty of the Côte d'Azur.

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Highlights:

-Visit the Orthodox church built on an ancient Byzantine monastery

-Explore the magnificent coastline on foot or by bike

-Discover the house of the writer Sait Faik, which has been transformed into a museum

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The island of Kinaliada

The smallest island in the archipelago has been spared mass tourism. It has three hills offering beautiful views: Çinar, Tesrifiye and Manastir. The island has little green space and its soil is mainly rocky and rich in minerals. As a matter of interest, the Byzantine walls of Istanbul were built from Kinaliada stones. The main attraction is the Armenian church of Surp Krikor Lusarovic, dedicated to Saint Gregory. On the hill of Hritos is a former monastery that was converted into an orphanage and then into a military headquarters during the First World War.

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Highlights:

-Visit the Armenian church and the Hristos monastery

-Discover the wooden houses of the Sikaryan twins, with 11 rooms designed by the architect Avedisyan Kalfa.

Admire the Kinaliada mosque, with its triangular-shaped plaofond and freestanding minaret

-Relax on one of its beaches

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Practical info

How do I get to the islands?

There are a number of ferry companies operating between Istanbul and the Princes' Islands. The most popular is Sehir Hatlari - the public ferries. Departures are mainly from Eminönü pier, Kabatas, Besiktas as well as Bostanci and Kadiköy. Prices are very affordable - as little as €1 a ticket.

The most convenient departure point is Kabatas, which takes around 1 hour 15 minutes to reach the island of Büyükada.

It is also possible to book a cruise in advance or a cruise tour with a guide on site. This option saves time and allows you to board the ferry directly.

Although ferry crossings are fairly frequent, it is advisable to check the return timetable in advance. Ferry timetables change with the seasons.

Sea buses (catamaran type) are faster than ferries. Journeys take an average of 55 minutes between Istanbul and the islands. They are operated by IDO and depart from Kabatas. However, the sea buses run at irregular times.

by Editorial Team
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