Road-trip to discover the charming villages of the Basque Country

Ainhoa is without doubt one of the prettiest villages in the Atlantic Pyrenees. Ideally situated in the bucolic valley of the River Nive with its many meandering streams, what was originally a shepherds' village later became an essential stage on the Pilgrim's Way to Santiago de Compostela. The village was built in the form of a fortified town with a single street lined with 19th-century Labourdin-style half-timbered houses. These delightful white and red buildings are much admired by visitors and have earned Ainhoa a place among the most beautiful villages in France.

Today they are home to numerous shops selling local crafts and products, so you can take home black cherry jam, a beret, a life-size statue of a sheep and other typically Basque souvenirs. For donkey milk beauty treatments and locally-made scented candles, visit L'Atelier de L'artis'Ane, which also offers a range of decorative items and leather goods made from ethically-sourced materials. Open Monday to Sunday from 10.30am to 6pm. Nestling in the same spot, in a secret alleyway set back from the main street, the Eskuz Holakatua and Lithos workshops offer superb carved wood creations, ranging from objects inspired by Basque traditions to children's toys. Don't hesitate to stray from the main street for a stroll through the nooks and crannies of Ainhoa, populated by abundant vegetable gardens.

Ainhoa is also home to some fabulous restaurants, starting with the famous Ithurria, which has been awarded a Michelin star. In a charming house in the heart of the village, chef Xavier Isabal serves up gourmet cuisine with a strong Basque accent, offering dishes that are as delicious as they are original. All the produce is in season, and the flavours of the Basque Country are sublimated with a touch of modernity. Open Thursdays from 7.30pm to 9pm and Fridays to Sundays from 12pm to 2pm and 7.30pm to 9pm.

Near Ainhoa, a beautiful walk through the undergrowth will take you to the Chapelle de l'Aubépine, nestling high in a natural setting and offering a panoramic view of the surrounding mountains.

Situated 20 kilometres from Bayonne, the delightful village of La Bastide-Clairence retains the typical structure of the south-western bastides of the Middle Ages. Strolling through its charming little streets, you'll come across venerable houses, some dating back to 1679 or even 1563! The focal point of the village is the Place des Arceaux. Friendly and lively, it's a meeting place for locals and visitors alike. Here you'll find Les Gamins restaurant, serving hearty Basque-style dishes in a friendly family atmosphere. Open Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday from 10am to 3pm and Friday and Saturday from 10am to 3pm and from 6pm to 10pm.

La Bastide-Clairence is also renowned for its arts and crafts, particularly silk weaving. A visit to the workshop of Patrice Cantalejo, Meilleur Ouvrier de France, is a real treat. You can watch the fascinating ballet of the weaving looms and the remarkable creations of the artist, jewellery, clothes and accessories in silk, of an absolutely remarkable finesse. Perhaps you'll be tempted by one of these exceptional pieces?

Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, the capital of Lower Navarre, was founded in the 12th century and is also one of the legendary stops on the pilgrimage to Compostela. At the time, the fortified village was part of the Kingdom of Navarre and was strategically located at the foot of the Pyrenees, keeping watch over both the north of the kingdom and the borders with the Kingdom of France. Crossed by the River Nive, Saint-Jean-de-Pied-de-Port offers visitors a picture-postcard landscape and superb walks through the fortified citadel and the maze of medieval streets, a veritable journey through time. Take a stroll along the rampart walk and the ramparts, and you'll understand why the village is also one of France's most beautiful villages. For history buffs and the curious, the Tourist Office offers guided tours of the citadel on Mondays, Wednesdays and Thursdays at 10.30am in July and August. Price: €7 for over-14s. Free for under-14s. Reservations required on 05.59.37.03.57.

As well as its rich historical heritage, Saint-Jean-de-Pied-de-Port is also a gourmet destination par excellence. Its unmissable farmers' market takes place every Monday morning in the Halles du Marché couvert, where you can discover Basque specialities of all kinds, from chorizo and Espelette chilli pepper to the famous Ossau Iraty ewe's milk cheese, made in a neighbouring valley. The market also features a wide range of craft products, giving you the chance to bring back some wonderful holiday souvenirs to give to your loved ones... or yourself.

If you're looking for generous cuisine that makes the most of local produce, head to Café Ttipia, where we were won over by both the quality of the dishes and the warm, typically Basque atmosphere. Open Thursday to Monday from 7.30am to 11.30pm.

If you're more of a sweet tooth, Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port is home to two fantastic patisseries, La fabrique de macarons, offering homemade macaroons concocted in the purest Basque tradition, and the Artizarra patisserie-confiserie, where you can enjoy almond tuiles, homemade ice creams, not forgetting the inevitable traditional Basque cake.

Situated at the foot of the Rhune massif, 10 kilometres from Saint-Jean de Luz and also crowned with the glory of being one of the "most beautiful villages in France", Sare has the typical charm of a mountain village. Populated by half-timbered houses so characteristic of the region and built around a pretty stone church and a pelota court where Basque pelota tournaments are regularly held, it is probably one of the most exotic places in the Basque Country. If you listen to the conversations on the café terraces, you'll realise that the locals speak Euskara (the Basque language). The history of Sare is fascinating, as the village was once a major smuggling centre and developed economically thanks to "Gauazko lana": night work. Smugglers crossed the border carrying a variety of goods (alcohol, tobacco, food, animals, etc.). They would make these perilous journeys wearing their running shoes to limit the noise and avoid alerting the customs officers. Every year, on the last Sunday in August, this part of Sare's history is commemorated during the Cross des Contrebandiers, when 36 champions from all over the Basque Country run 9 kilometres, carrying an 8-kilo bundle on their backs. Alongside the race, a variety of events take place in the village. The event serves as a prelude to the village festivities, which take place in early September.

For a taste of traditional Basque cuisine in a bucolic setting in the middle of the countryside, we warmly recommendURTXOLA , a small inn with rustic charm and a pleasant shady terrace. Mainly frequented by locals, it serves generous, homemade Basque dishes and an excellent sangria. A real treat! Open every day except Wednesday from 10am to 2.30pm.

Another must-do not far from Sare is the ascent of the Rhune on board the emblematic Train de la Rhune. Departing from Saint-Ignace station, this authentic vintage cogwheel train dating from 1924 takes you up to the mythical summit in 35 minutes, at an altitude of 905 metres. An experience as exciting as it is unforgettable! Once you've reached the summit, a breathtaking 360° panorama of the French and Spanish Atlantic coastline and the Pyrenees mountain range awaits you. You can also discover the local flora and fauna, including the drosera, a small carnivorous plant that grows in the peat bog, the griffon vultures soaring majestically over the ridges and, of course, the flocks of sheep and pottoks (a breed of pony typical of the region) that graze in the heights. The Rhune train regularly collaborates with the Hegalaldia association, which works to save wildlife in the Basque Country. You may even be able to see some of the birds that have been cared for being released back into the wild.

For the more courageous, the ascent can be made in 2? hours from the Col de Saint-Ignace. If you prefer a more leisurely ride on the Rhune train, the cost is €18.50 for adults and €11.50 for children. There are departures every 40 minutes from July to September, and the journey takes 35 minutes.