Suwon, a change of scenery just a few kilometres from Seoul

Off the coast of the country's tourist zone, the fortress of Hwaseong hides a dark and extraordinary intrigue: that of a murder, and the inheritance of the Joseon throne. Spread over a massive area of 130 hectares, the remains are well maintained and still represent one of the most intimidating fortified settlements in the whole of Asia.

Within its high stone walls are a series of towers, gates, turrets, bastions, bunkers and guardhouses. It's a complex so impressive that UNESCO has given it the coveted status of World Heritage Site.

As well as its remarkable architecture and astonishing size, its intriguing history is equally important. A tragic history has been frozen within its walls. You have to go back in time to the time of Yeongjo, the 21st king of Korea's powerful Joseon dynasty. When King Yeonjo ascended the throne in 1724, Korea was recovering from several foreign invasions and had entered an era of peace and prosperity.

King Yeongjo was a popular public figure until he made a bloody decision to kill his son. Heir to the Joseon throne, Crown Prince Sado was regarded by his father as unreliable and unpredictable. In 1762, to protect the dynasty from his rebellious son, King Yeongjo ordered his son to sit inside a large rice chest, which was then locked, starving him to death inside.

When the king himself died 14 years later, the throne was accepted by the son of the murdered Prince Sado. King Jeongjo, who was just nine years old when his father was killed, went to great lengths to honour his father, building this innovative and extremely complex fortress.

The main sections of the fort are still intact, such as the ultra-thick stone walls 6 kilometres long. Its four main gates can still be seen. The Janganmun Gate to the north of the fort and the Paldalmun Gate to the south are two-storey wooden buildings adorned with woodwork and hand-painted designs by Dancheong. The west and east gates, named Hwaseomun and Changnyongmun, are smaller but equally well maintained.

Over time, nine openings were made in the fort's walls to allow the flow of human and vehicular traffic. However, of the fort's 48 original elements - gates, towers, platforms, bastions, bunkers and command posts - 41 buildings have retained their origins.

This palace was the temporary residence of the king and royal family. King Jeongjo used to visit his father's grave just outside Suwon. Even today, visitors can watch the changing of the guard ceremony and martial arts performances in front of the palace.

Suwon Hwaseong Museum

This museum is a bible on the history and origins of the Hwaseong fortress. Models, maps, original architectural plans and contemporary letters are on display to explain how this massive bastion was built. We also learn how it was managed and the daily rituals that would take place within its walls. Every detail, from documents to information about the construction workers, is referenced.

Yeonmudae (Dongjandae)

On high ground, near the Changryongmun and Hwahongmun east gate, there is an observation post, called Yeonmudae, which was set up in 1795. This place played a secondary role as a training area for soldiers. This tradition continues to this day, and for a small fee you can dress up in traditional military clothing and take a short course at the archery range.

Korean folk village

For an immersion in traditional Korean culture and to discover what daily life was like in the past, a trip to Suwon village is a must. An open-air museum, it is home to more than 260 hanoks and other historic buildings that were originally moved here in the early 1970s. You can browse a traditional market, watch carpentry and metalwork demonstrations, and watch dance performances and other seasonal events. The Korean Folk Village is also a place to sample age-old Korean specialities such as bukeo-gui (grilled dried fish), jeungpyeon (steamed and fermented rice cake) and pajeon (chive pancake).

Toilet Museum (Haewoojae)

The former mayor of Suwon, Sim Jae-duck (1939-2009), earned the nickname 'Mr Toilet' after leading a campaign to improve toilet sanitation in the city, and later became the first president of the Korea Toilet Association. In 2007, he even demolished the house he had lived in for 30 years and rebuilt it as a giant toilet to celebrate the founding of the World Toilet Association. Little ones will make the most of the free indoor toilet museum's fun exhibits, while adults will learn more about the evolution of toilet technology and customs over the centuries.