DMZ, the border with North Korea

DMZ stands for Demilitarised Zone. Measuring 4 km wide and 240 km long, this zone has crossed the peninsula separating North and South Korea since 1953. This buffer zone exists because of the Korean War, which technically never ended although there are still peace talks. Bordered on both sides by tank traps, electric fences, landmines and armies preparing for battle, it is an "ominous place where the tension is palpable". Today, it is considered to be the most heavily guarded border ** in the world, with armies ready for battle on both sides. Surprisingly, the DMZ is also a major tourist attraction, with several observation points offering a glimpse of the Democratic People's Republic of Korea (DPRK; North Korea). For history buffs and collectors of strange and disturbing experiences, a visit here is a must.

© JNEZAM / Shutterstock

Where is the DMZ?

The DMZ stretches along the entire northern border of South Korea, around 60 km from Seoul. You can get a glimpse of North Korea from the DMZ tower. With 7.9 million visitors every year, the DMZ is one of the most militarised areas in the world and provides a valuable insight into the history of North Korea and the Korean War. All along the border, a number of attractions can be visited that teach us a little more about this conflict.

Third monument at the tunnel and third DMZ sign at the Third Korean Demilitarized Zone Infiltration Tunnel Visitor Center

- © Photo_J / Shutterstock

What is the DMZ Tour?

The DMZ Tour is a tour of the demilitarised zone (highly recommended and must be booked in advance) that separated North and South Korea after the Korean War in 1953. It is an excellent way to learn more about Korean history and the current situation on the Korean peninsula. It is also worth noting that this region protects precious natural and historical sites due to its isolation and lack of people.

Aerial view of mountain ridge and farming villages with houses and fields near DMZ

- © Stock for you / Shutterstock

What to see when visiting the DMZ

Imjingak Park

The Imjingak Park memorial complex commemorates the sacrifice of those who died in defence of South Korea. The park, which honours the families separated by the division of North and South Korea, is a symbol above all on an emotional level. After the tragedy, the park symbolises the hope of a day of unity. More than 400 exhibits on North Korea are displayed in the park. What's more, during your visit you may come across North Korean families migrating to Nonsan Park to perform peace ceremonies.

View of a destroyed locomotive in Imjingak, Republic of Korea

- © trabantos / Shutterstock

The third tunnel

In 1978, the third tunnel was discovered. It joins one of the four tunnels linking North and South Korea under the DMZ. It is also known as the Third Tunnel of Aggression, which could carry 30,000 soldiers per hour. The tunnel was used to invade the South and reflects the years-long struggle between North and South.

Nuri Peace Park

Nuri Peace Park is a beautiful, serene garden located in the DMZ. It commemorates the Korean War and has a statue of two doves symbolising peace. It is also notable for its lush greenery, which is unusual for the region.

Mangdaebbang

The Mangdaebbang is located in the front courtyard of Imjingak. This altar has a special significance for defected North Koreans. The altar in the Mangdeok garden is dedicated to the homeless, who mourn their parents, friends and relatives who were killed during the war or by separation.

The Liberty Bridge got its name when 13,000 prisoners of war shouted "Hurrah Liberty!" as they crossed the bridge back home after the Armistice Agreement in 1953.

- © Hang Dinh / Shutterstock

The Freedom Bridge

The Freedom Bridge is prominently displayed in front of the Mangdaebbang altar. The Freedom Bridge is decorated with brightly coloured ribbons in memory of the deceased.

Dora Observatory

The Dora Observatory is a must-see for visitors who want to (almost) set foot in North Korea. It offers incredible views of the country. The observatory has binoculars that allow tourists to see the North Korean town of Dorasan.

Dora Observatory binoculars on the border between South and North Korea

- © Panu Kosonen / Shutterstock

Panmunjom Joint Security Area (JSA)

The JSA (Joint Security Area) is the most sought-after visit by travellers to South Korea's DMZ because it is the closest place to North Korean soil. As a result, anyone can enter without being arrested or shot at. This experience takes you to the "front line", where the tension between the two countries is experienced at close quarters. Thrills guaranteed.

Located in the ancient village of Panmunjom on the west coast, JSA is made up of several buildings strictly guarded by the North and South. It also features the infamous blue conference rooms where negotiations often take place.

A trip to the JSA is only possible through a government-approved organised tour that respects the rules (no cameras with lenses of 90mm or more, no photography in certain areas, no wandering around without a guide, no shouting, respecting the silence, no running, no eating etc.).

© Chintung Lee / Shutterstock

The route takes in a number of highlights:

  • Unification Bridge: this bridge was opened in 1998 in preparation for the exchange of supplies between North and South Korea. Checkpoints are generally located before and after this point.

  • The House of Freedom: This is South Korea's "propaganda palace" facing the demarcation line and the entrance to Panmom (which is the equivalent of North Korea's House of Freedom). After visiting this house, visitors can see the Peace Pagoda, which offers superb views of the JSA zone and the surrounding countryside.

  • Demarcation line and MAC building: blue buildings are positioned above the demarcation line between the freedom houses. Nearby, North and South Korean soldiers can be seen standing on alert, staring at each other all day long. One of these blue houses is the MAC (Military Armistice Commission) building where negotiations take place and where you can technically enter North Korean soil.

  • Bridge of no return: we cross a bridge, which was a place where prisoners were exchanged at the end of the Korean War.

Millions of prayer ribbons tied to the fence, wishing peace and unification for North and South Korea.

- © Hang Dinh / Shutterstock

What should you know before visiting the DMZ?

The DMZ is a strange but fascinating place. It is full of stories and offers visitors a glimpse into the lives of the North Koreans. However, it is a military zone and certain rules must be followed before embarking on this adventure:

What to bring

Bring your passport, as most DMZ sites require official identification before admission.

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What should I look out for?

Since the Korean War, there have been many cases of landmines and unexploded ordnance in the DMZ. For your own safety, it is important to know where to walk and to heed all warning signs. It is also advisable not to touch anything that looks suspicious.

What should I wear?

Appropriate dress is also important for a visit to the DMZ. Although there are no strict dress code requirements, you should avoid wearing anything that could be interpreted as offensive or provocative.

Taking photos?

Photography is permitted in most areas of the DMZ, with the exception of the Joint Security Area (JSA). However, photography is not permitted inside a military installation.

Food and drink

Outside food and drink are not permitted at any of the DMZ tourist sites. There are restaurants located nearby. There are also a few souvenir shops where you can buy snacks and drinks.

by Jude JONES
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