Nature immersion in the Balkan Black Mountains

If you're here for the wide open spaces of Montenegro and its fantastic national parks, don't get bogged down in Podgorica, its capital, however charming it may be, because your schedule is tight. Quickly take possession of the car you've booked with a rental company and head for Lake Skadar on the M2.3 motorway.

This scenic route is the perfect introduction to your journey: mountainous landscapes and lush green valleys follow one another along the way. You'll soon get a taste of the freshness of the natural spaces that await you, the authentic signature of Montenegro's Dinaric Alps.

Lake Skadar

In less than an hour, you'll be on the lake, one of the most beautiful in Europe, a natural paradise renowned for its exceptional biodiversity and breathtaking panoramas. A bridge will take you over the Crnojevica river, which forms a lagoon overlooking the lake. You will pass through Vranjina, a charming little fishing village. Their families sell fresh fish by the roadside and the boats are shaped like gondolas. You are on the way to Virpazar, a charming village on the southern shore of the lake, where you will set down your luggage. Entrance to the park costs €5.

Leave your belongings at the hotel, nature is on your doorstep. Take a hike along the park trails or hire a kayak. As well as the spectacle offered by the 400km² lake fringed by karst mountains, the site is remarkable for its birdlife, comprising over 260 species. The Dalmatian pelican is its emblem. The Adriatic is just 7km away, linked to the lake by the river Bojana. If you have opted for a walk, don't stray off the beaten track, as the whole area is marshy.

The evening in Virpazar promises a traditional Montenegrin dinner in one of the local restaurants.

Walk south of the lake

Get up early in the morning to watch the day unfold over the lake and its wildlife awaken. You can do another walk in the opposite direction to the one you did the day before, or get back in your car to push on towards Murici and Bobovist. The road heading east towards Albania (which owns a third of the lake) is panoramic and well worth the diversions, but it is often narrow.

Murici is like the lake itself, very quiet and restful. On the small island of Beska, an emblematic monastery contains the churches of the Virgin Mary and St George, and a convent that is still in use. Its viewpoint overlooks the lake. A few minutes away, an immense chestnut grove, the largest in Montenegro, attracts lovers of flora and will offer you a moment of freshness. The rest of the route is worth taking for its panoramic views over the lake.

Here you can stop, enjoy the silence and take photographs. You're likely to spot some exotic birds (they migrate to Africa). It's also a rare opportunity to spot theimperial eagle or the eagle owl.

The hamlet of Godinje and its wine heritage

Once you've completed the loop, retrace your steps and stop off at the historic hamlet of Godinje. The history of this small village is closely linked to that of its winegrowers. No fewer than 15 winegrowers cultivate and harvest the grapes to produce Godinje wine, so pay them a visit. It's a unique opportunity to meet these wine-growers, taste their wine and discover their secular know-how.

You'll also learn that the houses were built close together to escape the Ottomans from the 16th century onwards. In fact, the entire hamlet is designed with communicating basements that form a tunnel running from one end of its surface area to the other. Wine was also stored here.

Then it's on to Virpazar to embark on the lake, a perfect way to take in the richness of its landscapes, with the added bonus of freshness.

Cruising on the lake

The cruises take place in calm weather, on large, more or less sophisticated boats fitted with awnings to protect you from the sun. There's plenty to choose from, and you'll be able to choose which loops you'd like to take. If you haven't already had lunch, you can have a picnic on board, either prepared at your hotel or during a stopover in one of the many picturesque villages along the lake. You'll even have the chance to take a dip in the lake, but away from the water lilies.

Afterwards, you can enjoy a trip up one of the many arms of the lake to reach the Kom monastery, for example, or the marshes around the fishing village of Karuč, to the north-west of the lake, a haven of peace and tranquillity where the famous curly pelicans have taken refuge.

It's getting late. You're off to Bar, where you'll spend the night. The town is on theAdriatic. We're staying by the water, but this time on the sea.

Bar and Stari Bar

Have a hearty breakfast at the hotel, then set off early in the morning to take Bar by storm. It's Montenegro's first port. Its sea air will give you wings. You'll stroll through this verdant town from your hotel to its long beach. Then you'll inevitably be tempted to go to Stari Bar, literally "Old Bar", a city abandoned a century ago, to discover its fortress in particular. You'll need to take your car, as Stari Bar is 4 kilometres from Bar.

You'll set off with an inquisitive mind to discover the old town that spreads out at the foot of the mountain. There are many well-preserved remains. The site is remarkable for its unusually shaped fortress, its old walls and its aqueduct, which runs for dozens of metres and bears witness to successive invasions that have left a number of Turkish baths in ruins.

Don't miss a visit to the Church of St Nicholas, which has preserved its Serbian-Byzantine frescoes, precious relics of Montenegrin history. Further on, you can see the old wall of the city walls and the foundations of St George's Cathedral, now in ruins.

Before you get too hot, why not take a look at what is perhaps the oldest tree in Europe. Here, it's called Stara maslina. It's an old olive tree, its shape tortured by no less than 2,000 years of life. It is the birthplace of Christ, and was there at the beginning of our era. Legend has it that it has the power to reconcile feuding families. It acts as a true guardian of the village for the 2,000 souls who live there today.

Ulcinj

Now head south to Ulcinj for lunch. You'll get there in less than an hour via the coastal road. Ulcinj is a beautiful seaside town on the Adriatic, popular for its large beach (Velika Plaža) and windsurfing centre. This is the perfect opportunity to take a dip in the waves after a good fish meal in the harbour. Try a brodet de Bokel, a typical Montenegrin bouillabaisse: a selection of fish and squid cooked in olive oil, tomato, white wine and garlic.

Before leaving the city, make a diversion to its saltworks(Ulcinj salina) located in the Bojana-Buna river delta. Here, a large population of birds stop off before migrating to Africa or Siberia. Here you can see pink flamingos and curly pelicans, as well as barges and waders.

Then off to Budva, where you will spend the night after a stroll under the Montenegrin night sky.

A new landmark in the Montenegrin landscape, this park is one of the most remarkable in the country, and one of its emblems.

Budva and Cetinje

Breakfast in Budva, a seaside resort whose old town is surrounded by a fortified wall built by the Venetians. You will then head for the charming town of Cetinje, the former royal capital, for a stopover before entering the park. You might like to visit a museum here, such as the King Nicholas Museum, or the Biliarda, the residence of the poet prince Njegoš, as the city is the country's cultural capital, bearing witness to Montenegro's rich Balkan history.

Mount Lovćen

Next, the highlight of your day will be the hike up Mount Lovćen. Make sure you have the right equipment for mountain walking.

The road from Cetinje skirts the park to the south. You can enter the park by car and leave your vehicle about 800 metres from Mount Lovcen, halfway (as the crow flies) from the Njegoš mausoleum, dedicated to Prince-Bishop and poet Petar II Petrović Njegoš.

The Njegoš mausoleum

From here, you can take the road heading south-east to the mausoleum, or west to Mount Lovcen. You can then choose from a host of spectacular views over the entire park, including the Bay of Kotor and its mountains.

To the north, you can discover the picturesque village of Njeguši and enjoy some of its restaurants, where you can sample the local ham and cheeses, such as the famous Njeguši Sir.

Once you've had a chance to recharge your batteries, drive to the Ivanova Korita adventure park, in the heart of the National Park. This area boasts a tree-climbing course that will delight the whole family. You can also take a walk in the forest and enjoy the mountains. Then return to Cetinje for the evening and overnight.

Some people come to Montenegro just for this superb southern version of the fjord.

The Serpentine route

The Serpentine Road to the Mouths of Kotor offers breathtaking panoramic views of the bay and surrounding mountains, but its unique winding route alone is a rare sight.

Before this beautiful walk, you will have taken the time to plan your day well, as there are many villages around the mouths of Kotor and many interesting viewpoints. Visits to the island of Notre-Dame-du-Rocher and the Blue Grotto are not improvised. You'll need to plan ahead for bookings, parking and crowds.

Kotor

It is the most important town on the fjord, surrounded by medieval ramparts made of light-coloured rock. Most cruises depart from here. A stroll through its cobbled streets may lead you to visit Saint-Tryphon's cathedral. To escape the tourists, you may want to climb up to the ramparts for a breathtaking view over the bay.

Pérast and Notre-Dame-du-Rocher

This typical village will be on your way. As well as being perfectly picturesque, right on the water, it is the oldest village in the mouths of Kotor. Stop off to visit the church of St Nicholas before taking the boat to Gospa od Skrpjela, the islet of Our Lady of the Rock, which is part of Perast. Authenticity guaranteed.

Although tiny, this islet is home to a church and a monastery. In the Middle Ages, it was built stone by stone in the middle of the lake by the villagers. A real tour de force. The church is famous for its 17th-century works by Tripo Kokolja and the fresco by Jacinta Kunic from Perast, as well as a marble altar by Antonio Kapelano from Genoa, carved in the 18th century.

Then, conditions permitting, consider visiting the Blue Grotto by boat. Here, the sunlight swirls around the grotto and the surface of the water in a multitude of reflections. Wrap up warm as it's cool.

Finish your day by heading for the port of Herceg Novi, where you will spend the night.

Herceg Novi embraces the sea. The double view over the entrance to the Kotor mouths to the west, and the strait overlooking the Adriatic to the south, is unique.

Take your time to enjoy this invigorating sight, enlivened by the air coming from both the mountains and the sea. After a continental breakfast on your hotel terrace with this rewarding view, visit the monastery of Savina.

The monastery of Savina

This important religious site overlooking the bay and its palm trees comprises two churches, a cloister and a small chapel. As well as the dreamy setting, visitors come here to admire the precious relics that have escaped the looting of history: mainly a chalice from the mid-17th century and a crystal and silver cross dating from the Middle Ages, but also some very rare antique religious books. Gothic frescoes will also delight fans of Orthodox iconography.

Kanli Kula fortress

This medieval building offers a panoramic view of the Bay of Kotor and the town, and impresses with its strength. It is virtually intact.

For lunch, choose a restaurant with a view of the sea, where you can enjoy a fish dish under a flower-filled arbour with a glass of fresh local wine. Or why not try some "Kotor-style mussels"? Then find yourself a spot on the beach for a swim in the crystal-clear waters of the Adriatic.

Igalo Spa Resort

But the relaxation doesn't stop there. Head to the Igalo Spa Resort, famous for its spa and regenerating mud baths. The Igalo Spa Resort, one of the most renowned multidisciplinary spas in the Balkans, awaits you. It's a mecca for therapeutic tourism. Come and relax and be pampered before hitting the road again.

At the end of the day, head north to Zabljak on the P5 motorway, which will take you through some magnificent mountain scenery. This town will be your base camp for the next two days and your journey to Durmitor Park.

Durmitor is one of the jewels in the crown of your trip. If you're looking for nature, you've come to the right place. No fewer than 18 glacial lakes promise invigorating hikes. Start at the Visitor Centre and buy a map of the park, the best way to make sure you don't get lost.

Hiking around Lac Noir

There are two must-sees here: Lake Black (Crno Jezero) and the Tara Canyon, which you can explore the following day. Bear in mind that this park forms a "n" and that Zabljak lies between its two legs, i.e. outside the park and at the same time to the south, east and west! Lakes Crno (Black Lake) and Zmijinje (Zminje) lie due west, in line with the park entrance.

You can enjoy a lovely walk in this area around the lakes, where there is a signposted footpath (not always very well signposted). It will take you around two hours to complete the loop. The mountain bike option is also suitable for this route, with trails awaiting you on two wheels.

The Tara Canyon lies around 8km to the north.

Savin Kuk

To the south, around 2 kilometres away, the high-altitude Savin Kuk resort offers sumptuous views and quick access to the mountain via its cable car. If you're not used to the mountains, be prepared for some thrills once you're up in the air.

Enjoy the view, take a stroll, but be aware that the last departure time for the cable car is 4pm. Otherwise, it will take you hours to get back down.

In the late afternoon, make the most of the town of Zabljak before heading off for dinner. Its mountainous character and the surrounding park mountains stand out from the coastal towns of the south.

Finally, get some rest. Tomorrow is rafting!

The highlight of your stay: discovering the canyon of the River Tara, Europe's largest freshwater source, and rafting down it! If you like white-water rafting, or even VERY white-water rafting, come here in early spring, when the rising temperatures melt the snow and the torrential waters flow into the river. If you prefer a more leisurely descent, come in summer.

White water rafting on the River Tara

From Zabljak, the picturesque road to the Tara Gorge is well worth a visit. You'll probably drive to the Djurdjevica Tara bridge, an architectural arch spanning the void. You can admire the scenery as you leave your belongings behind. Down below, meet the service provider you have chosen for this floating trip. You probably won't be alone, so expect other inflatables. You'll receive your equipment and instructions from the instructor. Place the children (if you have any) in the centre of the boat, take a deep breath of air and off you go!

The aerial spectacle that will unfold above your heads, to the rhythm of the river, is breathtaking. The perspective is as vast as the canyon is high: up to a kilometre. And don't forget to keep your eye on the road, because you're the one who's driving, paddle in hand! The speed you'll be travelling at will give this journey a frenzied sense of adventure and freedom. The omnipresent nature will invigorate you rather than tire you out.

After lunch on dry land, the organiser will drive you back to your starting point (all included in the price).

The Tara gorges

In the afternoon, you have a choice: stay in the canyon or take on the park, of which you have only seen a small part. For the second option, you can choose to go on an adventure by car, for example by driving around the park. But be warned: although perfectly picturesque, the road to the north is very narrow, winding, hard to drive and even dangerous. Instead, opt for a walk up to Curevac, a mountain that offers the best view of the gorges. Frankly, it's well worth the diversions!

But if the morning's adventure wasn't enough for you, the Tara gorges also offer the longest zip lines in Europe! Here's a tip for enthusiasts. Make your way to the bridge at Djurdjevica Tara - the crossing takes just a minute, but it's an impressive experience.

In the evening, you will sleep again in Zabljak, as the Biogradska Gora national park is only 50 kilometres away by road.

Early in the morning, it's time for breakfast, the most important meal of the day, and then off to the park. After about an hour and a half's drive through the mountains, you'll arrive. If you're there with children, a small tourist train can take you from the park entrance to Lake Biograd.

Made up of mountains, lakes and pine forests, notably from Macedonia, this park is the smallest in the country but is surprisingly dense. Its forest is one of the all too few primary forests in Europe. As such, the park is part of UNESCO's World Network of Biosphere Reserves.

You'll soon be on the lake that gives it its name, Lake Biograd, where you can take to the water in a kayak or rowboat to soak up the tranquillity. As you float along, the musky scent of the forest will give you an idea of its rich biodiversity: 2,000 plants and around forty mammals, not to mention its mushrooms.

Mount Bjelasica

Make your way to the restaurant on the lake (if it's open). Here you can freshen up and have lunch before heading into the forest or climbing to higher altitudes. If you opt to explore Mount Bjelasica, you'll need to be equipped for mountain hiking, but it's well worth the effort.

You can choose the loop that suits you best, but one thing's for sure: you'll always find a wide variety of landscapes: dense primeval forests, lush green pastures, discreet copses, icy mountain lakes and, of course, rocky ridges. Your hike will live up to its promise. Depending on the season, you may even be able to sample wild strawberries, blackberries or raspberries picked along the way.

Overnight in a Bjelasica mountain refuge

A number of fully-equipped refuges await you (there are also some dilapidated ones, which we advise against). Here, they are called "katun" and are of varying quality. But on the heights of Mont Bjelasica you'll find a choice katun, with all the comforts you need and even a restaurant.

But the wealth of rustic and authentic accommodation on the Bjelasica mountains doesn't stop there, as an eco-village will be an alternative accommodation option for you to spend the night, and also to hire a mountain horse the next morning, to eat the sometimes forgotten local specialities, watch the wool being spun and listen to songs to the sound of the gusle, a kind of local lute.

During the summer months, this village-like town is particularly popular for all the hiking it has to offer, and for its proximity to the Biogradska Gora National Park. In winter, however, it is a renowned ski resort, rising to an altitude of some 1,500 metres. If the lifts are open, you can make a return trip to take in the full panorama before heading back to Podgorica.

Have lunch here before hitting the road again. This is an opportunity to sample the cuisine of the Dinaric mountain pastures (in other words, the Balkans of Montenegro). For example, a slice of prsut, the local smoked ham, or kačamak, a kind of potato-based porridge that can be eaten both savoury and sweet, with prsut or honey. A dish that keeps you going.

Happy as an accomplished man or woman, you'll head for the capital via the Bar-Boljare Mtwy/A1 motorway to catch your flight.