The Gocta waterfall: Peru's hidden treasure

Head for Cocachimba, the village from where a path leads to the waterfall, which can already be seen from the road surrounded by mountains. The foretaste of this natural wonder that emerges over the next few kilometres makes us want to see it up close. Since it was discovered, the waterfall has become a popular destination for locals and tourists alike, and the Cocachimba municipal tourism association is doing all it can to develop the 5km trail through the forest.

Work is still in progress today, funded in part by the price of the visit. Once you arrive in the village, you can choose to set off with or without a guide, or to ride the first 3 km on horseback. The normal entrance fee is around 10 soles (around €2.50). After passing some houses, the path winds its way through eucalyptus, cedar and orchid trees.

Over a 5 km stretch, a variety of landscapes with dense, lush vegetation unfold before our eyes. Plantations of sugar cane, banana and palm trees, tropical trees and exotic plants such as orchids and bromeliads can all be admired as you continue to plunge deeper into the jungle. On foot or on horseback, visitors must cross a suspension bridge over the river, climb up natural or landscaped steps and then descend as they make their way along a path that becomes increasingly wooded.

Throughout the walk, the waterfall is revealed from a number of different vantage points, with a total of seven viewpoints from which to observe it. One of the watchtowers is located on the terrace of a drinks shop, about 45 minutes' walk from Cocachimba, where you can drink a sugarcane juice prepared before our very eyes.

The undulating path does not require any particular training, although you should be able to walk for several hours. To get to the foot of the waterfall, you'll need to walk for between 2h and 2h30, and about the same time to return along the same route.

So allow at least 5 hours free in your day. Don't worry, you won't see the time go by as nature is so beautiful to contemplate. The waterfall, which flows over two levels, is visible up to a certain point; the closer you get, the more the higher part becomes hidden. On arrival, only the lower waterfall can be admired.

At the turn of a corner, you can look up to see a toucan or, more rarely, a spoon-tailed hummingbird. With a bit of luck, if you arrive early in the morning or later in the evening, you may come across the Rock Rooster, the true emblem of Peru with its red colour.

At the 3rd km point, there are toilets and benches where you can take a break. The trail stops here for horses and you will have to continue on foot if you have chosen this option. For the remaining 2 km, the waterfall can be seen more closely through the trees, creepers and dense jungle vegetation. The path is less hilly than it was at the start, and the last viewpoints allow you to take photos facing the waterfall.

On arrival, you can finally hear the impressive sound of the waterfall sliding down the cliff. The path continues up a flight of steps to the foot of the Gocta waterfall. The spot is ideal for taking photos, getting a few refreshing drops of water or taking a dip in the pool. You'll need a bit of courage, though, because while the water is cold, the waterfall also holds its share of mysteries...

The Gocta waterfall has always been known to the inhabitants of Cocachimba, but it was only in 2005 that it was discovered by the German anthropologist Stefan Ziemendorff, who introduced it to the world.

When he was in the Amazonas region looking for sarcophagi, he spotted a very long waterfall on the mountain opposite. He went to the nearest village, Cocachimba, to find out more, and met Telésforo, a native of the village. Telésforo explained to him that no one had ever ventured into the jungle to see the waterfall, because legends had sprung up about it.

According to village beliefs, the waterfall was inhabited by a mermaid who took with her men and women who got too close to the pool.

"My ancestors thought that the waterfall had a soul and that it caught anyone who came near it".

When Stefan Ziemendorff returned with his companion, only Telésforo agreed to accompany him to the foot of the waterfall. A month later, the anthropologist returned to the guide with his team to measure the waterfall. They had just discovered the 3rd highest waterfall in the world. As he tells us this story, Telésforo can't help but be amused by the beliefs of his parents, uncles and aunts.

The 75-year-old, who seems to have kept his childlike spirit, now accompanies tourists as they explore the village and the waterfall. Always with a smile on his face, the man who knows the place like the back of his hand tells anecdotes, provides information on the plants to admire and the birds to see and hear, all the while giving hikers courage.

On the way back, you can have lunch in the village or simply grab a snack with an incredible view of the mountains, forest and waterfall at the Gocta Andes Lodge. This is THE place to be on a day out in Cocachimba, because as well as the succulent cuisine, elaborate cocktails and perfect service, there's a surprise in store: Peru's famous alpacas! It's magical!

🚌 The Gocta waterfall is 1 hour from the town of Chachapoyas by car or bus.

🛫 After flying to Lima, take another flight to Tarapoto or Jaen airport and then drive to the Amazon.

👉 The first path starts from the village of Cocachimba and takes you to the foot of the waterfall.

👉 The second is a path to take from the village of San Pablo, although it has less gradient, it doesn't take you to the very bottom of the waterfall.

🐎 You can also do part of the walk on horseback with a guide. However, the last two kilometres have to be completed on foot. Allow around 5 hours' walk there and back.