Mont-Saint-Michel: between sheep and crêpes, a peninsula to savour!

Mont-Saint-Michel is a medieval village built on the slopes of a hill-shaped islet on the north coast of France in Lower Normandy. The village's narrow, winding streets all lead up to theNorman Benedictine abbey of Mont-Saint-Michel, which lies at the very top. Mont-Saint-Michel became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979, but has played an important role since it was used as an Armorican stronghold (an ancient region of north-west France) in the 6th and 7th centuries. Mont-Saint-Michel is even depicted on a tapestry commemorating the battle of 1066 (the Norman conquest of England).

The origins of Mont-Saint-Michel date back more than 1500 years. Before the Reformation, Mont-Saint-Michel was an important place of pilgrimage, which lost its status at the time of the French Revolution (1789-1799); the abbey then became a prison before being reopened and restored to its former glory after the famous French author Victor Hugo fought to have Mont-Saint-Michel recognised as a national architectural treasure. Since Mont-Saint-Michel was declared a historic monument in the 1860s, its popularity as a tourist attraction has continued to grow.

The unique location of Mont-Saint-Michel

Although no longer a place of pilgrimage, the charm of the Mont lies in its compact labyrinthine structure along the main causeway, which is the only way to access the village. Tourists frequently attempt to reach Mont-Saint-Michel by sea, but this is strongly discouraged due to the strong currents and shifting sands that surround the peninsula. Crossing the sea to reach Mont-Saint-Michel should only be done in the presence of an experienced guide.

The reputation of Mont-Saint-Michel

Mont-Saint-Michel is a crowded township full of tourist traps, but it is also one of France's top tourist destinations, and today it is the most visited place after Paris and the surrounding area. Mont-Saint-Michel has managed to maintain its appeal through the romantic image portrayed by some of France's most renowned painters and authors, such as Guy de Maupassant in Le Horla. The islet has also featured in several works of contemporary music, such asAphex Twin 's song Saint Michael's. Cornwall is one of the daughter colonies of Mont-Saint-Michel, and home to Aphex Twin.

Of course, the restaurant de la mère poulard is the most iconic and famous of the Mont-Saint-Michel restaurants, with its famous omelette known the world over for being both light and thick, thanks to its unique foamy texture. But not to hide anything, although the restaurants on the island are all expensive, this one is surely the most overpriced and also the most crowded so here's a small selection of the other reputable establishments.

🍴 La Sirene

This restaurant has the double advantage of being a crêperie and one of the cheapest on the island. For €8 or €9 you can enjoy a good savoury crêpe. What's more, the establishment enjoys an excellent reputation.

🍴 La ferme Saint-Michel

For a more elaborate but also less expensive cuisine, you'll have to leave the island and head for the mainland. La ferme Saint-Michel offers quality local dishes at reasonable prices given the location. You should expect to pay €27 for a full menu, including starter, main course and dessert. Among the dishes on offer is the famous pre-salted leg of lamb.

🍴 Le pré-salé

However, for leg of lamb lovers who want to taste the best of the area, it's best to head for Le pré-salé, the restaurant that has made it its speciality. The prices are higher, but the quality and service are second to none. In fact, the prices are certainly the same as many of the poor quality establishments on Mont-Saint-Michel. You'll have to pay €43 for an à la carte menu.

Strolling through the streets

Before entering these famous, crowded streets, you will have to pass through several gates: the Porte de l'Avancée, the Porte du Boulevard, the Porte du Roi and finally the drawbridge. Only then can you enter the steep, narrow Grande Rue. Overflowing with small shops and souvenir boutiques, this street was already used for this purpose 1,000 years ago. Admittedly, trinkets weren't made in China back then. The main thoroughfare is lined with magnificent granite and half-timbered houses dating back to the 15th century. If you can ignore the waves of tourists and the anachronistic souvenir shops, the immersion in a distant past is almost total.

The museums

There are four museums: the Musée de la Mer et de l'Écologie, L'archéoscope (a show retracing the history of the area), the Musée Historique and the Maison Du Guesclin (a period house). It's worth noting that these are not the site's best attractions. They are rather dated and expensive for what they offer. We do not recommend them, unless one of their subjects is one of your passions.

The Abbey

The Abbey was a small, simple monastery that was turned into a prison during the French Revolution, before being restored to its glorious past (and beyond, after the Revolution). Some relics from the period when it was a prison, such as a "human hamster" hoist wheel, are on display. The Abbey is a must-see at Mont-Saint-Michel. Mass is celebrated every day except Monday. If you are in Mont-Saint-Michel, the other site to see is the Notre-Dame-sous-Terre chapel. The chapel was built in 966.

Around Mont-Saint-Michel

When visiting Mont-Saint-Michel, beware of the crowds, which can be exhausting especially during religious festivities and in summer. However, to ensure you get some respite, take a stroll around the village walls, which offer beautiful views of the surrounding land and water. Alternatively, you should visit the few gardens dotted around the island. Something that most people seem to enjoy doing is going in and out of the countless tourist shops selling cheap souvenirs, which spoil the atmosphere of the village a little. You can walk or cycle around the whole island, which can be covered in a few hours.