The authentic Marie-Galante, between dream beaches and distilleries

A little removed from mainland Guadeloupe (which generally means Grande-Terre and Basse-Terre), Marie-Galante has managed to remain authentic despite the boom in tourism in the region. Among the main communes, two large villages in the south of the island stand out and are well worth a visit.

The first, Grand-Bourg, is home to a number of small, picturesque wooden houses - the last still standing on the island. In the centre of the village, in the south-west of Marie-Galante, the church of Notre-Dame de Marie-Galante is also worth a visit, with its superb wooden interior painted turquoise blue. Not far from Grand-Bourg, the renovated ruins of the Trianon factory give a good idea of what the sugar industry was like in the 19th century.

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Capesterre is the island's second-largest town. A small town with dream beaches, it owes its reputation to the Sainte-Anne chapel carved into the rock of the cliff. It is a place of pilgrimage for the Marie-Galantais. Tourists come here mainly to enjoy the magnificent Feuillère beach, or to visit the Le Salut distillery, whose copper still is one of the last in working order.

Located in the south of the island of Marie-Galante, in the commune of Grand-Bourg, Château Murat is home to the island's not-to-be-missed Ecomuseum. In the 1840s, this estate was the largest sugar cane plantation in Guadeloupe, employing over 300 slaves.

Today, this former manor house houses the permanent exhibition "Trésors populaires du quotidien". This is your chance to learn more about the ancestral customs and lifestyles of the local population (fishing, games, crops, etc.) throughout history. The Murat Ecomuseum also boasts an interesting botanical garden with over a hundred medicinal plants. The icing on the cake: this pretty 19th-century sugar house also offers a breathtaking view over the lagoon.

Murat Ecomuseum is open all year round, Monday to Sunday (except public holidays). Admission is free and photos are permitted.

In the north of Marie-Galante, the small fishing village of Vieux-Fort is renowned for its inhabitants, who are great specialists in the manufacture of charcoal. Around the village, the beaches disappear to make way for imposing cliffs sculpted by the furious assaults of the sea. At the end of a rocky path, you'll come across the Gueule Grand Gouffre, a gigantic limestone arch carved out by the water. Further on, Caye-Plate, another place where the sea breaks loose and is renowned for its giant lobsters, is also well worth a visit. Take advantage of the opportunity to hike for several hours along the cliffs, and you'll be able to enjoy a number of breathtaking views over Grande-Terre.

Sugar cane reigns supreme on Marie-Galante. It covers most of the arable land. At the height of its growth, it blocks the view of the countryside, forming high walls of vegetation. It is during the harvest, between January and June, that Marie-Galante finally reveals its gently undulating terrain and hidden treasures. Ox carts clog the roads carrying their precious load of cane to the factory. The remains of the old mills reappear and the distilleries start up again. Cane straw twirls in the air, while the countryside is permeated by the sweet smell of freshly extracted molasses... This is the ideal time to visit the island's distilleries and soak up the local culture at close quarters with the locals.

In Marie-Galante, you'll need to take the time to seek out the best places to sample the island's traditional cuisine. It is authentic and uses a wide variety of local produce. Papaya and green banana au gratin, cooked roots and giraumon are just some of the traditional West Indian dishes such as colombo and black pudding. Fish and lobster are also on every table, and some restaurants serve the catch of the day with their feet in the sand.

As for drinks, the rum produced in three distilleries enjoys a good reputation. "Père Labat" is considered to be the strongest rum in the West Indies. Alcohol-free aficionados will be delighted by the multitude of fresh fruit juices available on the island.