Santorini express, 2 days

Indeed, this first day begins early, in the early hours of the morning, in the streets of Fira. At this hour, the capital of Santorini is still completely asleep: no one to stand in the way of fabulous shots of the Caldera, under the rising light of the rising sun. Splendid!

Take time to admire the views of Santorini's jewel around the mythical Atlantis Hotel, before thinking about your first visit: the Fira Prehistoric Museum opens its doors. Here you can admire art treasures from the Minoan era, including splendid frescoes found on the site of ancient Akrotiri. If you want to visit the museum the next day, take the combined ticket!

Don't waste too much time wandering through the narrow streets of old Fira to find the grand staircase leading down to the port: your first encounter with Santorini's donkeys! If you're not sure, take the funicular, which is just as spectacular but less tiring. We'll be waiting for you mid-morning for an all-day discovery tour. The objective: the Santorini Caldera.

Aboard an old caïque converted into an excursion boat, the start of the crossing offers an impressive view of the multi-coloured cliffs of the Caldera: it makes you feel very small, especially as the sea is a surprisingly deep blue! You can also choose to hire a boat with or without a skipper to carry out the day's itinerary: this option offers more privacy and freedom (and isn't necessarily more expensive).

The first stage is right in the centre of the Caldera: the volcano, Nea Kameni. With one foot on the ground, you can climb up from this very recent island, black with basalt, via its various craters, to admire a panoramic view of the entire Santorini archipelago. At the top, don't miss the fumaroles around the sulphur-yellowed rocks, and feel the heat underfoot: the volcano is indeed active!

After a dip in the hot springs of Palea Kameni (for good swimmers!). Next stop is the port of Thirassia, opposite Santorini: with a picnic on deck, you'll have time to climb the stairs to the village of Manolas, for a café on the terrace with a breathtaking view. But be warned: it's a steep climb...

On returning from the boat, Oia, perched on its cliffs, is revealed from the sea, the most famous village in Greece. It's the real picture postcard of Santorini! Descending to the next port of call, the port of Armeni, we return to the narrow streets of Oia just in time for the big show: the sunset from the ancient Venetian fortress. Lots of people, selfies, eccentric outfits, and a magnificent landscape: 100% Santorini.

The evening passes quietly in Oia, which regains its calm at night.

Today, we're taking a break from the Caldera to discover other typical facets of Santorini. Early in the morning is the ideal time for a first swim on the island's emblematic Red Beach, before the mass arrival of tourists: space is running out fast!

Then take out your combined ticket to visit the counterpart of the Fira Prehistoric Museum: ancient Akrotiri, an extremely rare archaeological site, a Minoan city covered by volcanic ash in the manner of a Greek Pompeii. A fascinating visit, during which the superb frescoes admired the day before are replaced.

As lunchtime approaches, stop off a little further afield in the pretty village of Emborio, certainly the most authentic in the whole of Santorini: its narrow streets, small renovated Venetian kastro and market selling local produce in the main square give you a glimpse of everyday life on the island. Perfect for a few mezzes in a local kafeneio.

The hottest hours will be devoted to the beach, near Perissa and its superb stretch of water. There's no shortage of deckchairs with parasols (and cocktails) if you're in need of some cool shade. The most courageous will set off on foot to the top of Mesa Vouno to use the last entrance of the combined ticket and visit ancient Thera, as much for the site as for the view! A round trip that takes us quickly into the late afternoon.

Head for Pyrgos, another very picturesque village on Santorini. Climb to the top of the kastro and watch the sun set over the Caldera again, but from a completely different perspective (and with fewer people!). Pyrgos is full of cafés and tavernas where you can enjoy an early evening drink and dinner.

Then it's back to Fira, the last stop of the day and the most practical way to leave Santorini the next day. If you're a night owl, you won't want to miss out on a trip to one of the capital's always-full bars, even if it means getting little sleep, while the others can enjoy one last terrace with a view of the Caldera, this time illuminated in the half-light.