Assyrtiko and the wines of Santorini

Growing vines is a tradition that dates back to the dawn of time. Frescoes dating from the Minoan period bear witness to this, depicting the merchant ships of this ancient civilisation of Cretan origin transporting the precious beverage in large amphorae.

In 1600 BC, however, a gigantic volcanic eruption took place, changing Santorini's geological profile forever. The soil received a large mass of volcanic debris, such as pumice stone, covering the entire island in a thick layer. Above all, Santorini remained uninhabited for centuries, until Spartan settlers arrived...

It was not until the arrival of the Venetians in the 13th century that vine-growing, and agriculture in general, began to flourish again on Santorini. Over the centuries, techniques were refined with the emergence of a grape variety endemic to the island, Assyrtiko. Assyrtiko now accounts for over 80% of Santorini's vines, producing mainly white wines.

This vineyard is an integral part of the Santorini landscape, occupying most of the plots in the southern part of the island. The Assyrtiko has demonstrated its resistance to phylloxera, resulting in some remarkably old vines: the oldest plants around Akrotiri are said to be almost 300 years old!

The look of Santorini's vineyards is striking, and will surprise any visitor used to the neat lines of the vineyards of Bordeaux or Burgundy... Here, there are no rows of vines, but clumps of vines at ground level, scattered over fields studded with volcanic rocks.

Assyrtiko is a low-yielding grape variety that needs space, because water is in short supply! That's why the vines stay so close to the ground: in the morning, they can catch the dew that evaporates under the first rays of sunlight.

If you look closely, you can see that the vine is wrapped around itself, forming the equivalent of a nest around the bunch. This is the Kouloura technique, the meticulous work of the winegrower. The vine shoots form a protective barrier against the wind, which regularly blows hard on Santorini: with no trees, there are no hedges to stop it!

Harvesting takes place in the heat of August. Assyrtiko and Nychteri (night wine) are the two great classics of Santorini, two lively, mineral white wines, but there are also other blends and rare red wines such as Mavrotragano.

But the emblematic speciality of Santorini remains Vinsanto: this sweet wine is made from grapes dried for a fortnight in the sun. The sugar content soars! Vinsanto can then be aged in barrels for up to 20 years. Light in alcohol and very sweet, this dark-coloured wine is particularly good with desserts. A real treat!

A number of independent winegrowers, wine companies and a cooperative await you in Santorini for tastings, sometimes accompanied by a guided tour of the facilities.