Pyrgos, an authentic Santorini village

Perched at 365m above sea level, it doesn't take long to realise the strategic importance of Pyrgos: from the top of the hill, you can see almost the entire island and its superb Caldera, blocked only by the heights of Profitis Ilias: the summit of neighbouring Santorini rises to 567m above sea level.

The settlement of Pyrgos goes back a long way, as the village's rich historical heritage testifies. The Venetians, who had been present on Santorini since the 13th century, logically decided to build a kastro there: a veritable fortified town, it enabled them to control the entire agricultural area around Pyrgos and keep watch over the surrounding countryside.

Thanks to agriculture and trade, Pyrgos became the most prosperous village on Santorini around the 19th century. Beautiful houses and churches flourished here, testifying to the social and economic success of its inhabitants.

Like the rest of the villages on the island, Pyrgos suffered the full force of the major earthquake of 1956: most of the buildings were destroyed. A patron of the arts managed to raise the funds to build all the churches on Pyrgos, which are now remarkably well preserved.

Although today there are still some ruined houses around the kastro, Pyrgos is a busy town, inhabited all year round, where the local Greek atmosphere still reigns, particularly on Sundays and religious feast days.

Pyrgos is not very big. It can be visited in two hours in a hurry, but it would be a shame not to linger a little longer and get lost. From the central square, bustling with cafés, to the entrance to the Venetian kastro, an impressive maze of narrow streets awaits the visitor, who will inevitably end up disorientated!

Along the way, a number of small shops catch the eye of those wishing to bring back some pretty souvenirs from Santorini: jewellery, volcanic rocks, crockery, decorative items, bells and, of course, postcards always find takers. Many of the buildings have also been converted into hotels or holiday rentals!

In terms of heritage, a number of beautiful neo-classical mansions dating from the 19th century are a reminder of the past prosperity of Greek notables who often made their fortune as owners of commercial fleets. But what is most striking is the number of churches and chapels all over Pyrgos: some Catholic, most Orthodox, and you shouldn't miss the chance to enter when they are open.

At the top of Pyrgos, the entrance to the Venetian kastro, set in a row, served to prevent any incursion: the facades of the houses formed a rampart, protecting this walled town. The scree of the old, unreconstructed houses offers superb views of Santorini and the Caldera!

Pyrgos Cathedral, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, is well worth a visit when it is open, for its rich religious ornamentation and beautiful iconostasis, typical of the Orthodox Christian tradition.