Fira, the lively capital of Santorini

A surprising sight, Fira seems to be clinging to the multicoloured cliffs of the Santorini Caldera. The island's capital stands out in white against the red-brown rock, with its semi-troglodyte dwellings that have preserved the island's typical architecture.

In Fira, the contrast is between two distinct parts of the town, laid out lengthways: the modern part at the back, and the old town, directly overlooking the caldera, where you'll find cafés with terraces, restaurants with breathtaking views, and a wide variety of shops. Day or night, this is the place to be!

In the maze of narrow streets and staircases that make up Fira, you'll find one viewpoint after another over the caldera and its volcano. Along the way, you always come across the countless steps leading down to the port, far below the cliffs: the donkeys waiting to bring back the tourists who have returned from their excursions are like a living postcard of Santorini.

View of Fira
© Georgios Tsichlis / Shutterstock

Fira, reborn through tourism

It was not until 1835 that Fira became the capital of Santorini. At that time, its port, Ormos, was the scene of the island's exports to Europe, Russia and Egypt. In those days, donkeys didn't carry tourists like they do today, but goods such as tomatina paste and vinsanto filled animal skins!

Typical panorama of Fira
© losbkru / Shutterstock

Like all the villages on Santorini, Fira was largely destroyed by the 1956 earthquake: many ruined houses can still be seen in the old town. But the meteoric rise of tourism on Santorini quickly restored colour to Fira, the centre of all activity on the island.

Fortunately, the town was rebuilt in Santorini's own Cycladic architectural style, with its characteristic vaulted roofs. Although most of the houses overlooking the Caldera are now hotels, Fira still retains a lot of its allure, offering countless views of the volcano and the rest of Santorini: an effect guaranteed.

Fira's emblematic donkey
© Svetlana Ryajentseva / Shutterstock

With its many restaurants, cafés and shops lined up in a row, Fira is always bustling with people. Unlike other Santorini villages such as Oia, this is also the case in the evenings, as Fira remains the centre of Santorini's nightlife thanks to its many bars, which fill up and close late.

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From the port to St John the Baptist's cathedral: visit Fira from top to bottom

Ormos, the port of Fira, is one of Santorini's most spectacular sites: 300 m below the volcanic cliffs, it is now used primarily for disembarking cruise passengers and for excursions to the volcano. It's always worth climbing down the endless staircase to enjoy the magnificent views, but beware of donkeys!

Vertiginous descent to the port of Fira
© Nataliya Nazarova / Shutterstock

To go back up, take the cable car, an impressive structure that takes you effortlessly straight up into the heart of Fira! The old town, which seems like a labyrinth at first glance, stretches out in all its length. Don't hesitate to get lost in it, by taking the side roads: that's how you discover the less populated corners and the most beautiful viewpoints.

Cathédrale Saint-Jean Baptiste
© VCoscaron / Shutterstock

The old Catholic quarter, a legacy of the Venetian presence, is a must-see, with the Cathedral of St John the Baptist towering over the whole town, and the Gyzi-Megaron Palace converted into an exhibition centre. Another must-see is the Fira Prehistoric Museum, the finest in the Cyclades, with superb Minoan frescoes found on the site of ancient Akrotiri.

Practical information

👉 How do you spell 'Fira'?

Fira is the most commonly used name, but Thira and Thera (and even Chora!) also refer to the capital, as well as the entire island of Santorini. Some road signs make a mix, so don't be surprised.

👉 When should you come to Fira?

Fira is very busy during the day and until sunset, so a visit very early in the morning, when the town is empty, is always nice. In the evening, Fira is the place to meet up in the bars to party.

👉 How do I get to Fira?

Fira is the hub of the KTEL bus network: all routes start and finish at the capital's bus station, including to and from the port and airport.

👉 Visit St John the Baptist Cathedral:

  • The cathedral is open to the public every day from 9am to 9pm
  • Free admission

👉 Visit the Fira Prehistoric Museum:

  • Admission: full price €6, concessions €3
  • Combined 3-day ticket: €15 (includes the archaeological sites of ancient Akrotiri and ancient Thira).
  • Opening times: 8.30am-3.30pm
  • Please note that the museum closes on Tuesdays

The combined ticket quickly pays for itself, but be sure to plan your three visits around the closing days of each site.

Fira, in the evening
© Andrew Mayovskyy / Shutterstock

🍴 Where to eat in Fira?

The many restaurants on the edge of Fira's caldera are expensive and rarely good... Unfortunately, Fira is not a town for gourmets!

👉 Where to go out in Fira at night?

Bars are concentrated in the centre of the old town, particularly along Erithrou Stavrou: atmosphere guaranteed in season. For a beautiful view of the caldera and a cocktail, Franco's Bar is a Santorini institution.

by Editorial Team
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