Sfax, Tunisia's economic capital

Tunisia's second-largest city and a veritable economic capital, Sfax is not just about business! Admittedly, it attracts mainly a business clientele, but it is full of treasures, starting with its crenellated medina with high ramparts housing the Kasbah and the Great Mosque.

And that's just as well, because tourists can visit the museums and go shopping in the souks at unbeatable prices, as the area is not very touristy. An authentic Tunisia at last! As an added bonus, you can leave from the port for the heavenly Kerkennah Islands.

© Christophe Cappelli / Shutterstock

The history of Sfax

Tunisia's economic capital is almost as big as Tunis. Situated at the entrance to the Gulf of Gabès, halfway between Monastir to the north and Djerba to the south, Sfax is the administrative capital of the eponymous governorate. This ancient Berber then Roman city has over time become the country's main port, particularly for exporting olive oil and fish.

Since the 9th century, when the Muslim Aghlabid dynasty rebuilt the ancient Roman Taparura, its high walls have played a major role in protecting the city from invaders. The modern city was born under the French protectorate in the 19th century. It boasts neo-Moorish buildings and colonial architecture, notably the town hall and railway station.

© Mltz / Shutterstock

Why visit Sfax?

Sfax's main jewel is its medina, encircled by ramparts considered to be among the finest in the country. The Tunisian government would like to have them listed by UNESCO, which considers the Sfax medina to be "the most representative and best-preserved example of Arab-Islamic town planning in the entire Mediterranean basin". It is on the waiting list... Access is via monumental gates leading to an impressive variety of souks with an authentic atmosphere and bustling population. The highlight of a visit to the medina is the Great Mosque, which in some respects is reminiscent of the one in Kairouan.

In the south-west corner of the medina, head for the Kasbah, a former fortified residence dating from the 16th century, with its striking towers and artillery bastion. You can explore it from the superb inner courtyard to the top of the monument, where you can enjoy a superb panoramic view of the old town. The Kasbah is also home to the Museum of Traditional Architecture.

Still in the medina, take a trip to the Dar Jallouli museum: this museum of popular arts and traditions is housed in an Andalusian-style house dating from the 17th century. The stucco, painted woodwork and ceramics of this palace provide a particularly rich backdrop for the collections of everyday objects (jewellery and other beautifully carved chests, traditional costumes, Arabic calligraphy, etc.). This former residence, built by a wealthy family of Sfax governors, is built around a beautiful inner courtyard.

Outside the medina, head for Place des Droits de l'Homme. Sfax's archaeological museum is housed in the town hall and its clock tower. Here you can admire a large collection of Roman mosaics, as well as coins, ceramics and glassware.

Practical information for visiting Sfax

How do I get to Sfax?

From France, Sfax is served by Transavia and Tunisair, and occasionally by the local airline Syphax. For summer 2023 (from 18 June to 17 September), Nouvelair, which serves Djerba, Monastir and Tunis from Paris, is adding Sfax to its list of destinations - great news! Nouvelair will operate two flights a week between Sfax-Thyna and Paris-CDG airport. Sfax-Thyna international airport is located six kilometres south-west of the town. It takes about 10 minutes by taxi (3 dinars or about €1). There are many more flights to Monastir, but its airport is a 2-hour drive further north.

Sfax is a fishing town, so you must try the fish, prawns and king prawns, either cooked or grilled, as well as the fish couscous. In the souks, don't miss the delicious little cakes made from marzipan, hazelnuts or pistachios, flavoured with rosewater and honey.

For the best view of the minaret of the Great Mosque of Sfax, head for the Souk el Kamour in the medina, then climb to the top of the large terrace of the Café Kemour overlooking the mosque. Time for your photos!

If you come towards the end of July and the beginning of August, you'll have the chance to attend the Sfax International Festival, with a host of musical performances on the programme.

The ferry to the Kerkennah archipelago leaves from the port of Sfax aboard the ship Loud, an excursion not to be missed!

The Dar Jellouli museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9.30am to 4.30pm. It costs 5 Tunisian dinars (€1.5).

Sfax's archaeological museum is located in the town hall and is open during municipal opening hours, Tuesday to Sunday, 8.30am to 1pm and 3pm to 5.45pm. Expect to pay 5 Tunisian dinars (€1.5)

Our favourite hotel in Sfax
Sfax is full of business hotels from major international chains (Ibis, Radisson, Occidental, Golden Tulip, Business Hotel Sfax...), but we've chosen a charming, luxury hotel, the Borj Dhiafa, like a fortified citadel! Don't panic when it comes to prices: between €70 and €100 a night, it's still very reasonable for its standing... Heated indoor swimming pool, three à la carte restaurants and wellness centre. Perfect for relaxing in the evening after exploring the surrounding area!

© Borj Dhiafa/ booking.com
by Jude JONES
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