Panormos Bay, another Mykonos to discover

Mykonos, the island of parties, the jet set, yachts, trendy restaurants and luxury shopping, is not the same everywhere. To see for yourself, you need to explore the north, which has a completely different face to the south coast where most of the tourist activity is concentrated.

As you move away from Chora, the density of construction fades around Bay of Panormos: the hills are covered with thorn bushes and fragrant thyme, plots of land are still cultivated and old stone walls still support the roadsides. An ancient Greek island landscape, far from the hustle and bustle of the southern beaches.

Mykonos remains Mykonos, and in this part of the island there are still some beautiful beaches, such as Agios Sostis or Panormos, surrounded by small hotel complexes, a few rental properties and abandoned projects... it's another Mykonos to discover!

Agios Sostis sur la baie de Panormos

- © Pietro Basilico / Shutterstock

The north coast of Mykonos, or the antithesis of the south

In Mykonos, all the tourist activity is concentrated on Chora, the capital, and the beautiful beaches to the south. The north, on the other hand, has had a slightly different fate. From east to west, the coast is mainly rocky and jagged, with only a handful of sandy bays... On a windy day, it's almost inhospitable!

The Cyclades and Mykonos are particularly exposed each summer to the Meltem, a northerly wind that blows in gusts, sometimes powerful and lasting several days in a row, making the sea rough and lazing on the beach impossible.

Panormos Beach

- © npp_studio / Shutterstock

However, the north of Mykonos is still well worth a visit, especially for those seeking tranquillity.

After all, not all of the north coast is hostile - far from it! Around the large bay of Panormos, a number of beautiful sandy beaches remind us of what Mykonos was like before the tourist invasion and the intensive partying. Now is the time to make the most of it: the island is changing fast, and property developers are always on the lookout for new land to develop on Mykonos.

View of Panormos Bay from Profitis Ilias, Mykonos

- © Leanne Vorrias / Shutterstock

Today, around the bay of Panormos, the landscapes are still typical of the Cyclades: small hotels and a few sparse dwellings, fragrant scrubland dried out by the intense sun, low dry stone walls demarcating plots of land...

To admire them, you can get up high: at the top of Profitis Ilias, the highest peak in Mykonos (372m above sea level), a small white chapel and a superb view of Mykonos and the surrounding islands await you at the end of a steep track... and hardly anyone can enjoy it!

Practical info

🚌 How do I get to Panormos Bay and the north of Mykonos?

By car, allow around 15 minutes' drive to reach the beaches of Panormos Bay. Unlike the southern beaches, these are not served by local buses.

Note that many roads become tracks in the northern part of the island, which are not always well maintained.


When should you set off to explore the north of Mykonos?

Keep an eye on the weather, especially in midsummer: when the Meltem is blowing hard, it will be difficult to enjoy the beaches, even the sheltered ones in Panormos Bay. In that case, it's best to head south!

The beaches of Panormos Bay and northern Mykonos

As well as some beautiful panoramic views of the island, the main reason for going to Panormos Bay is to enjoy the beaches. There are no buses in the area, so a car or even a scooter is essential.

At the far end of the bay, Ftelias beach, which faces north, takes the full brunt of the Meltem wind. This makes it a renowned spot in Mykonos for kitesurfing and windsurfing.

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That's why lovers of beautiful, undeveloped sandy beaches prefer to drive a little further to Agios Sostis beach. This beach takes its name from the double chapel at its northern end, around which are a number of accommodation facilities and a pleasant taverna overlooking the bay.

Far from being a deserted beach in season (after all, we're in Mykonos!), Agios Sostis is the closest thing you'll find to an authentic Cycladic beach, without parasols or deckchairs.

Fokos Beach

- © Nick N A / Shutterstock

Lovers of the genre will continue their exploration of Mykonos 'off the beaten track' beyond Panormos Bay, still on the north coast, with pretty sandy beaches such as Fokos, Mirsini and Merchias.

Fans of the party beaches of Paradise and Super Paradise will be a little bored, as there is rarely more than one local taverna around. But those who prefer a calmer atmosphere will find plenty to do here... as long as the Meltem doesn't blow too hard!

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by Sofia Viramontes
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