Rye: the perfect day trip from Brighton

Rye is brimming with quirky, weird and fun history. A seaside town, and strategically located at the confluence of three rivers: the Tillingham, the Brede and the Rother and an important member of the medieval Cinque Ports confederation, Rye’s history is uniquely tied to its maritime function. Evidence suggests that this function goes all the way back to Roman times, becoming an important and highly regarded port in the 12th century. By the end of the 17th century, as ships got bigger and fishing became more expansive, smuggling also became a larger issue. New tax impositions on various goods propelled the rise of smuggling throughout southern England, particularly in towns such as Rye. It quickly took on much wider proportions, becoming a criminal pursuit with gangs forming such as the notorious Hawkhurst Gang. The criminal organisation was active from 1735 until 171749, when three of their leaders were executed and were known to meet in the iconic Mermaid Inn and the Olde bell Inn in Rye, the two of which are said to be connected by a secret passageway. The town remained an important port and point of interest, particularly during the Napoleonic Wars, when it was under constant threat of invasion. It also maintained close ties to the crown throughout the centuries, even receiving the title of “Rye Royal” from Queen Elizabeth I in 1573.

A stroll through the town centre is an absolute must. The picturesque lanes exude such charm and warmth, it’s simply impossible to resist. If you start from the Landgate and then make your way through the centre and the High Street, you can easily head to the iconic Mermaid Street and just off that, West Street. 

The Landgate is the only remaining of the four gates built in 1329 to fortify the town and is a beautiful stone monument which deserves to be seen by any and all visitors. 

While you’re meandering about the town’s narrow streets, you have to stop by the legendary Mermaid Inn. The Inn dates back to the 12th century, making it one of England’s oldest. Throughout the centuries, it saw a myriad of guests wander through its narrow rooms, from Catholic priests seeking refuge during the reformation to Queen Elizabeth I to criminals to Lord Alfred Douglas, one of Oscar Wilde’s lovers. With such a chequered history, it is no surprise that the Inn is said to be home to an eclectic array of ghosts. The Inn was even featured on an episode of the TV show Most Haunted, which makes for excellent viewing to prepare for your visit, that is if you’re not afraid of a few ghouls. 

You can make your way to Church Square and gaze at the historic half-timbered houses that are such an important part of what makes Rye feel so out-of-time.   

Rye is known for its abundance of fantastic local craftspeople and beautiful independent local boutiques. We’ve compiled a small list of some of our favourites that we think are a must-see when visiting the town. 

Strand Quay Antiques is a charming collection of anything and everything you could ever think of. The delightful chaos of this place is what makes it worth a visit, if only to experience its eclectic energy. 

Ethel Loves Me is an iconic independent shop on Rye’s High Street. Selling an array of different hand-made objects, the store consistently features the work of local artists, craftspeople, artisans and makers. It is a joyous place full of heart and radiates warmth. No trip to Rye is complete without a stop at Ethel Loves Me. 

The Cosy Dot Company is run by Ali who is an expert at all things antique and finding the most unique pieces in brocantes. The shop is full of gorgeous and unique objects that make excellent souvenirs from any trip to Rye. 

The Confit Pot is a stunning store on Mermaid Street offering a wondrous collection of rustic and antique homeware. The variety of hand-picked pieces on display at the Confit Pot is impressive and it’s definitely worth taking the time to wander through the shop and try to find the perfect gem for your home. 

Rae Lifestyle offers a beautiful selection of hand selected vintage and rustic homeware from all over the UK and Europe. The store allows visitors to rethink their shopping habits and encourages them to reflect on quality over quantity and the benefits of living slower, and to engage with objects and homeware in a more intentional way. 

Rye Castle, also known as Ypres Tower, is an essential stop on any Rye itinerary. The construction date of the Castle is unclear but historians estimate that it must have been built between the 13th and 14 centuries. Once built, the castle’s function was both to defend and facilitate trade. It was subsequently bought by John de Iprys  in 1430 and was by then being used as a prison, which is why it garnered the nickname of Ypres Tower. It remained a prison until 1891, when it started being used as Rye’s morgue. 

You can visit Ypres Tower  7 days a week throughout the year except on 24th and 25th December. Opening hours from March 30 – October 31 are 10:30am to 5pm and from November 1st to March 29 are 10:30 am to 3:30pm. Tickets for adults cost  £5.00 and children under 16 go free but must be  accompanied by an adult.

Once you’ve seen the Castle head to St Mary’s Church. This gothic church in the heart of town is not only beautiful, but is also said to be another haunted location in Rye. The year was 1743, the place was St Mary’s churchyard, and local butcher John Breads is gearing up to kill the mayor. On a dark evening, in the church courtyard, Breads stabs a man he thinks is John Lamb, the mayor of Rye, but turns out to be Allen Grebbell, Lamb’s neighbour. Breads was subsequently hanged and gibbeted for his crime. Legend has it, both Grebbell and his murderer Breads haunt the church and its yard. 

If you’re not too spooked, it is well worth climbing up the church tower which offers fantastic views of the town’s colourful rooftops and quaint details. Located on Church Square, entry is about £4 per adult. 

One of the UK’s most peaceful and relaxing beaches, Camber Sands is not far from Rye and is the perfect backdrop to a long walk. A ten minute drive or 20 minute bus journey from Rye’s centre, Camber Sands is a wonderful place to get a healthy dose of fresh air. The beach is dog and child friendly and has many dunes to get lost and play in and wander through. Camber Sands is actually the only beach with sand dunes in East Sussex. It’s a great spot to unwind, splash around in the salty water, have a picnic and maybe stay for the sunset. That said, it can get rather windy so we recommend bringing wind-proof gear for your visit.

Rye is a hilly medieval town so make sure to dress appropriately for tackling those old cobblestone streets; we’re mainly thinking about footwear here, people! Because it is very old and historic, be sure to check any accessibility needs you may have ahead of time, just to guarantee your visit runs smoothly.

By car: 

• The drive from Brighton to Rye is picturesque and takes you along England’s southern coast. It takes around 1h30 via the A27 and is a relatively straightforward route. 
• There are many car parks right out of the town centre such as Rope Street car park and Ports street car park.  

By train: 

• Southern railway offer many train journeys from Brighton to Rye and back, although travellers will have to change trains at Hampden Park. The overall journey takes on average 1h47.  

Rye is a very small town so walking is the best way of getting around the town, and it’s also a wonderful way to enjoy all the stunning sights it has to offer.

• Check the weather in advance to see if you need to bring your umbrella. Rye is just as charming in the rainy greyish weather than in the glorious sunshine.
• When visiting local stores, be sure you have some cash on you, just in case they don’t take card.