Montmartre is a must-see. Protected from traffic, this district of character contains corners that are often painted and depicted. Isolated from the main tourist routes, our walk begins at Place Emile Goudeau, where Pablo Picasso lived.
Paris, "the most beautiful city in the world", as we often hear, has not lost its reputation. We're all familiar with the tourist hotspots, highlighted in commercial brochures. Fortunately, there are also picturesque corners of Paris that are protected from the crowds and cherished by Parisians, who keep them to themselves. Off the banks of the Seine, flower-filled maisonettes, guinguettes, quiet tree-lined squares, veritable little villages in the city. That's where we're taking you today...
✈️ Fly to Paris!
Paris has two international airports (Orly and CDG).Where to start? Montmartre, of course.
How do I get there?
🚌 Getting there: Abbesses metro station, which will drop you off at Place des Abbesses. There, you're almost right in the heart of Montmartre, just a few steps from the funicular that will take you to the Sacré Coeur.
Of course, you can get off at other outlying stations, but none of them serve the heart of Montmartre.
Getting there by car isn't easy. Firstly, Paris City Council restricts access, but also because parking there is a challenge (there is no underground car park under the hill).
Just a few steps away is the grocery shop that was once the setting for Amélie Poulain. Past this tree-lined square, you come to rue d'Orchampt. This is where the painters of Montmartre had their studios and Dalida her home, at the corner of this silent street. At the end, the passageway is pedestrianised. Take it and you'll find yourself opposite the Moulin de la Galette, a real wooden mill set in a garden. Further to the right, rue Gabrielle, a dead-end street, takes you up to the steps of the Butte and the Sacré Coeur gardens. You'll hardly come across anyone, except perhaps the pétanque players.
Le Royal Saint-Michel - Paris
A 4-star hotel in the heart of the Latin QuarterThe Saint-Michel of forgotten lanes
These narrow streets, inherited from the Middle Ages, are not very busy. Cars hardly ever pass through them, and there is no parking space. Tourists don't go there, they don't know they exist. There are a few restaurants here and there. You can admire the old buildings. The rue des Grands-Degrés starts at quai de la Tournelle. The rue de la Bûcherie continues into old Paris. Small bookshop, small restaurant, small stroll. At the end, the square René Viviani is a haven of greenery, next to the church of Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre.
Streets named after flowers
You'll be familiar with Parc Montsouris, where the whole neighbourhood gathers. But did you know that just a stone's throw away lies an unsuspected little hamlet made up of a cluster of village houses spread over a few narrow streets? A village in the heart of the 13th arrondissement. It's known as the Cité Florale. Its streets are named after flowers: wisteria, orchids, irises. The rue des Volubilis is stunning in its buttercup yellow. You'll find a place to soak up the sights and sounds, and you'll be ecstatic in silence. You could stay there for hours.
La Butte-Aux-Cailles and the turtledoves
La Butte-Aux-Cailles is a village. Charming bungalows, lanterns hanging from the facades, quiet little streets, short two-storey buildings, no more, you can't go wrong, you're there. Rue Daviel passes between small, colourful half-timbered houses, just like in Trouville. Villa Daviel, meanwhile, offers the tranquillity of its cul-de-sac to coquettish houses simpering behind wisteria and rosebushes.
In Rue des Cinq Diamants, the Basque restaurant Chez Gladines is a real gem. Further on, in Place Verlaine, pétanque players compete with each other to have the time of their lives. Here, the local children have a swimming pool... in Art Deco style. An air of Roubaix 1932. A real trip to the provinces.