The Ponte Vecchio, Florence's lifeline

The old bridge... it's charming in French. But it doesn't have the same cachet as its Italian counterpart. The Ponte Vecchio is the whole of Florence, a passageway over the Arno linking the two banks of the city.

Lined on either side with shops suspended over the river, the Ponte Vecchio has always been a haven for merchants. It was only later that the greengrocers moved in, followed by the goldsmiths and their shops, which still delight tourists today. Or maybe it's the other way round.

The Ponte Vecchio has become as much a symbol of the city as the Palazzo Vecchio, the Duomo and the Uffizi Gallery, and has remained true to its origins since 1345, when it was built almost seven centuries ago. Doesn't it live up to its name?

Le Ponte Vecchio

Le Ponte Vecchio

- © S.Borisov / Shutterstock

The Ponte Vecchio, a vestige of medieval Florence

There is evidence that an ancient wooden bridge crossed the River Arno as far back as the Roman Empire, linking the two banks of the small, unimportant town that was Florence at the time. This first bridge was swept away by a flood in 1333, by which time the city was already developing into one of the most flourishing cities in Italy.

The Ponte Vecchio on the Arno River

The Ponte Vecchio on the Arno river.

- © MisterStock / Shutterstock

This led to the decision to build a bridge that was not only more solid, but also more beautiful and more majestic: in 1345, the Ponte Vecchio was completed, in a version close to the one we can still admire today. It crosses the river at its narrowest point in three arches, linking the right bank of the Arno, or Lungarno, with the left bank, Oltrarno.

Initially, the Ponte Vecchio was home to the city's butchers and tanners, making it easier for blood and odours to be transported out of the city along the water. But not enough for Ferdinand I de' Medici's taste, who had them replaced by the city's jewellers and jewellers in 1593!

Florence's oldest bridge

Florence's oldest bridge

- © Sahara Prince / Shutterstock

Before him, another Medici, Cosimo I, also added his own touch to the Ponte Vecchio: the Vasari Corridor. This long, entirely covered corridor, which runs above the shops, enabled the reigning family to reach the Palazzo Vecchio and the Palazzo Pitti on either side of the river, without ever mixing with the crowds.

Crossing Vasari's Corridor

👉 This mysterious corridor began at the Palazzo Vecchio, the centre of Florentine power, then crossed the Uffizi Gallery to cross the Ponte Vecchio, passing above the houses! On the other bank, the passage overlooked the church of Santa Felicita, where you could discreetly attend mass, before reaching the Pitti Palace via the Boboli Gardens.

© Viking Ocean Cruises / YouTube.com

The Ponte Vecchio and the two banks of Florence: Lungarno and Oltrarno

The Ponte Vecchio is a survivor in Florence: at the end of the Second World War, all the bridges were destroyed during the German withdrawal... except for the venerable Ponte Vecchio, which was too narrow for tanks to pass through!

The jewellers of the Ponte Vecchio

The jewellers of the Ponte Vecchio

- © DFLC Prints / Shutterstock

Fortunately for Florence and its many visitors, the Ponte Vecchio is now one of the city's landmark monuments and a must-see. The street that crosses it is dotted with jewellers' windows, which have been there since the 16th century! This could be the time to splurge, or to find a great gift...

Evening view of the Ponte Vecchio

Evening view of the Ponte Vecchio

- © SAHACHATZ / Shutterstock

At the centre of the Ponte Vecchio, the view opens out onto both banks of Florence at the level of the bust of Benvenuto Cellini, an illustrious Florentine goldsmith: the right bank is called Lungarno, in reference to the quays built along the Arno. This is the most touristic part of Florence, the historic heart where the city's must-sees are concentrated.

Oltrarno, on the other hand, refers to the left bank of Florence: an area not to be forgotten, less crowded and often more authentic, where you can find small local addresses and bars with a "bobo" atmosphere, such as on the San Niccolo side... Also a very pleasant place to set down your suitcases!

Where to sleep?

Hotel Palazzo Guadagni Florence
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Hotel Palazzo Guadagni

Hotel with roof garden, 5 minutes' walk from the Ponte Vecchio.
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Practical information

⏰ What are the opening times of the Ponte Vecchio?

The bridge itself is a street and remains open 24 hours a day. Goldsmiths' and jewellers' shops generally open from 10am to 7pm every day, with restricted opening hours on Sundays.

📷 When to visit the Ponte Vecchio?

The best photos are taken when the Ponte Vecchio is not yet overrun with tourists... as is often the case, you'll either have to get up early in the morning, for a pretty light over the waters of the Arno, or late at night, when the bridge is illuminated.

The Ponte Vecchio at its quietest: at night

The Ponte Vecchio at its quietest: at night

- © Paolo Gallo / Shutterstock

🎁 What can you take home from the Ponte Vecchio?

Apart from a few stalls selling trinkets for tourists, the shops on the Ponte Vecchio are all devoted to jewellery, goldsmiths and watchmakers.

💡 Is it possible to visit the Vasari Corridor?

This hidden passageway used by the Medici is still as fascinating as ever. It is possible to visit the Vasari Corridor, but only as part of a guided tour: online booking strongly recommended on the Florence Uffizi Gallery website.

by Jude JONES
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