The Bouffay district, the historic heart of the town

A little history

Just a stone's throw from the Château des Ducs de Bretagne and Saint-Pierre and Saint-Paul Cathedral, the Bouffay district is Nantes' historic city centre, dating back to the arrival of the Namnètes, the Gallic people who gave their name to the city. Bouffay was the beating heart of Nantes in the Middle Ages, and its medieval identity lives on in its narrow streets and the presence of several half-timbered houses built in the 15th century, including the superb Maison des Apothicaires, which now houses a restaurant.

Place du Bouffay 📍

The Bouffay district was built around this illustrious square, once bordered by the Loire and now a daily meeting point for the people of Nantes. People meet here for a drink in one of the many bars that set up their terraces in fine weather. However, the Place du Bouffay has not always been so convivial, as in the Middle Ages it was the site of public executions. Among those executed was the notorious Gilles de Rais, who was condemned to be hanged and burned on 25 October 1440. The Pornic-born squire, who fought alongside Joan of Arc, was found guilty of torturing and murdering more than 140 children. This sordid affair inspired Charles Perrault to write one of the world's most famous fairy tales, Bluebeard.

Fortunately, the Place du Bouffay, having long been home to a covered market that replaced public executions, is now more conducive to happy hours than the Pilori!

The church and the Passage Sainte-Croix 📍

In the centre of the district, run to admire the ravishing Sainte-Croix church, built in the XVIIᵉ century in the classical style and then modified in the XIXᵉ century. You can admire the round of angels on the magnificent belfry at the top of the building. Note that the pretty Place de l'Eglise is often taken over by second-hand booksellers, who offer a wide selection of old books and contribute to the life and charm of the district.

The Passage Sainte-Croix is a covered passageway topped by a beautiful glass roof that links the rue de la Bâclerie and the Place Sainte-Croix and crosses the former priory built by Benedictine monks in the 11th century. Every month, the priory organises exhibitions and cultural events, often linked to the history of Nantes, with a special mention for the delightful Passage Sainte-Croix garden, an island of bucolic tranquillity in the middle of this busy district.

With the district teeming with shops and restaurants, you'll have no trouble finding somewhere to grab a bite to eat or spend the evening. The narrow, charming Rue de la Juiverie is particularly festive, with its many bars and excellent crêperies where you can enjoy a good galette complete with a bowl of cider.

Our favourite🍴: Located in rue Sainte-Croix, just next to the church, La Cantine Du Curé offers delicious, original galettes made with fresh produce. The welcome is warm and attentive, and the prices very affordable.

The most secret terrace in Nantes 🍴: For those who love hidden addresses! Go through the green porch at 6 rue des Carmélites and you'll come across the splendid terrace of the bar **Chez MariusThis is actually the Bar du Café Théâtre, open to all from Tuesday to Saturday evenings from 7pm to midnight. Located on the former site of the Carmelite convent, you can enjoy a quiet drink surrounded by jasmine and olive trees. And who knows, maybe you'll bump into your favourite comedian?

📍 Île Feydeau, located just a few hundred metres from the Bouffay district in the heart of the city centre, is a real part of Nantes' history. This magnificent group of buildings dating from the 17th century were originally encircled by an arm of the Loire, which until the 1930s extended its bed at the foot of the Dukes' castle. Today, Ile Feydeau is no longer an island, even if it has retained its title. But it does offer visitors one of the city's greatest architectural curiosities: the buildings that make it up are leaning, giving Île Feydeau a surrealist appearance.... The reason for this oddity? The original land was unstable. Like most of the islands along the Loire, the soil was sandy. As soon as they were erected, the buildings began to subside, giving the facade the irregular appearance we see today. In the 17th century, the inhabitants of Ile Feydeau were the rich shipowners of the town, which prospered at the time 'thanks' to the Triangular Trade. Some of the flats on Île Feydeau bear witness to this sad era, with trap doors that were used at the time to store slaves. They were sometimes crammed in for several days before setting sail again for the Americas.