The cathedral of Saint-Pierre and Saint-Paul, the beautiful lady of Nantes

The site of Saint-Pierre et Saint-Paul cathedral was originally an ancient Druid temple (in Nantes, Brittany is never far away!). Subsequently, 2 Christian religious buildings preceded the current cathedral on the same site: a first cathedral, built in the 6th century; a second Romanesque cathedral, built in the 11th century. The construction of the current Gothic building dates from the 15th century. It was originally designed by the architects Guillaume de Dammartin and Mathelin Rodier. The reconstruction of the cathedral began with the façade and gradually extended to the old Romanesque church. The façade was completed in 1481 and the towers in 1508. The nave and side aisles were also completed in the early 16th century, while the Gothic vaulting of the nave, the south arm of the transept and the flying buttresses were completed in the 17th century.

Unusual

During the French Revolution, the Cathedral was used as an observatory, a stable and also as a place for scientific experiments in which animals were parachuted from the stands to test their reliability.

The cathedral has had a long and eventful history, punctuated by repeated destruction and reconstruction. But it is still standing, its majestic silhouette towering over Nantes.

The Chapel of the Immaculate 📍

While the cathedral and its crypts have not been open to the public since the fire in 2020, take comfort in a visit to the ravishing Chapel of the Immaculate. Built in the 15th century, it, like the church, is a magnificent example of Gothic architecture in Nantes. Bathed in light through its superb stained-glass windows, created after the destruction of the original windows during the 1944 bombardments, the chapel's many alcoves are full of delightful surprises. The chapel, in rue Malherbes not far from the cathedral, is open to visitors on Wednesday afternoons from 2pm to 6pm. Concerts (mainly of sacred music) are regularly held there.

The Statue of Louis XVI 📍

A stone's throw from the cathedral, in the centre of Place Maréchal Foch, is another notable monument in the city of Nantes. This is an imposing 28-metre-high column on which "sits" a statue of King Louis XVI, deposed during the French Revolution. The King's presence is surprising in itself, as few towns have kept a monument in his honour in a public square. Throughout the 18th century, the statue was the subject of a merciless battle between royalist supporters and republicans who worked to have it replaced by a monument celebrating the Revolution. The Place Maréchal Foch has even been the scene of bloody clashes between the two camps. The last of these took place in 1830, during Louis-Philippe's seizure of power, when ten demonstrators demanding the release of 18 prisoners were killed by soldiers. To commemorate this tragedy, a commemorative plaque was affixed to the column in 1831. It reads: "Here took place a bloody struggle between the oppressors and the oppressed on 30 July 1830. English ploughmen and labourers have commissioned this inscription as a token of their admiration for the bravery, valour and intrepidity of Nantes.

More Gothic architecture

There's a bit more, I'll give you more? If alcoves and turrets are your thing, check out the Manoir de la Psallette in the impasse Saint-Laurent, a stone's throw from the cathedral, a little architectural marvel hidden from view in a square known only to regular visitors. This splendid bourgeois residence, now a listed historic monument, is not open to the public but is well worth a visit for the myriad details to be seen on its façade and its superb garden, ideal for a bucolic picnic. A little-known Nantes treasure that will delight those nostalgic for Gothic flamboyance.

🍴 Another hidden curiosity! On the other side of Place Maréchal Foch, in an inner courtyard on Rue du Général Buat, nestles La Maison, one of Nantes' most unusual bars. The concept? Each room in the establishment is designed like a living room (kitchen, lounge, bedrooms and even toilets!). All in a retro 70s atmosphere worthy of "Chapeau melon et bottes de cuir". With a wide choice of drinks and boards to share, fans of kitsch and conviviality will feel right at home!