Visit the church of Saint-Jean-Baptiste, where Louis XIV was married

The church of Saint-Jean-Baptiste is one of the town's most emblematic landmarks, and has played host to many historic events, including the marriage of King Louis XIV to Maria Theresa of Spain. Built in the 12th century, it was originally a small Romanesque church that was destroyed by the ravages of war. On the basis of its remains, a new monument was erected, which has grown over time to its current size. Listed as a historic monument since 1931, the church is now one of the city's most popular tourist destinations, attracted by its rich past and sumptuous interior. Step inside and you'll see the monumental gilded and carved wooden altarpiece, which is much admired by visitors.

The church was completely rebuilt in the 16th century.

- © Francesco Bonino / Shutterstock

A history dotted with wars

Historians claim that a Romanesque church on the same site as the current building stood there as early as the 12th century. It was the epicentre of the village, with several houses surrounding it. But Saint-Jean-de-Luz suffered the ravages of successive wars, with English domination, the Hundred Years' War and Spanish invasions. The church burned to the ground, but some of its remains remain intact (the blacked-out windows, for example).

© places to see in / Youtube

In the 16th century, thanks to whaling, cod fishing and trade with the West Indies, Saint-Jean-de-Luz became prosperous and the population grew accordingly. The decision was taken in 1630 to completely rebuild the building. The work lasted 50 years, and at the time of the King's wedding, the church of Saint-Jean-Baptiste was still in the midst of construction!

The wedding of Louis XIV

The church is best known to history as the place where Louis XIV (the Sun King) married Maria Theresa of Austria (the Child of Spain) in June 1660. The location was decided by Mazarin, who wanted to put an end to the famous Thirty Years' War between Spain and France. The King and his court arrived in Saint-Jean-de-Luz a month before the wedding. No fewer than 50 gentlemen, a guard of 100 horses and 300 infantrymen crammed into the little town!

The ochre-colored Joanoenia house has been renamed Maison de l'Infante.

- © Alvaro German Vilela / Shutterstock

This major event left its mark on the city. So much so that certain buildings were renamed after the royal visit: the Joanoenia house, which welcomed the future queen during her stay, was renamed "the House of the Infanta". Although the reason for the marriage was essentially political, the couple were nonetheless happy: accounts say that when Louis XIV left the church, he was radiant and full of attention for his new wife. Their marriage proved fruitful, with six children born to them.

© Visites privées / Youtube

9 years after the royal wedding, the door through which the bride and groom entered the church was walled up so that no one could ever use it again. No one knows whether this decision was taken on the king's orders or on the church's initiative.

The appearance of the church

The interior of St John the Baptist church follows a simple plan with a single wide nave and a short transept that is only slightly wider than the nave. Its real originality lies in its mix of styles: the multi-level balconies and white walls of the nave are typical of Basque churches, while the altar and transept have Italian influences.

Multi-level balconies are typical of Basque architecture

- © Francesco Bonino / Shutterstock

The altar, made of carved wood covered in gold, completely fills the back of the church. With its rows of statues representing saints, its complex decoration and its large size, it is particularly impressive. Most of the interior furniture dates from the 17th century, as does a pulpit and a relief of Saint Ambrose.

Where to stay?

⭐ Apartment Loquin

Flat Loquin Saint-Jean-de-Luz Saint-Jean-de-Luz
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Flat Loquin Saint-Jean-de-Luz

Flat ideally located 200m from the main beach. Ideal for 4 travellers
8.6 Superb
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Practical info

📍 Location

  • Rue Léon Gambetta, 64500 Saint-Jean-de-Luz

⏰ Opening times

  • Monday to Saturday from 8.30am to 6.30pm between 1 April and 30 September and between 8.30am and 6pm between 1 October and 31 March. On Sundays, it is open from 8am to 7.30pm (at the end of mass).

🕑 Duration

  • approximately 30 minutes

🚌 How to get there

  • Bus 3 to the Halte Routière \~ Autobus Geltokia stop and bus 43 to the Mairie \~ Herriko Etxea (Saint jean de Luz) stop will drop you off a stone's throw from the church

👉 Further information

  • Guided tours are also available. More information at 0559260881
by Jude JONES
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