As well as its perfume and delicious Mediterranean cuisine, the south of France is famous for its wines. From Spain to Italy, the coasts abound with wine estates and plots of land where grapes are grown. Labelled differently depending on the region, grape variety or soil, the world of wine is vast, complex and tasty. Temperatures develop bunches bathed in sunshine on Provençal soil, cooled by the seaside mistral. The wines are fruity and generous, just like the villages in the hinterland. If you're a fan of fine wines, the area around Cannes is full of estates that organise visits and tastings. We'll spend two days meeting the winegrowers, visiting a few museums and spending the night in Grasse.
Cagnes-sur-Mer is a small village just a few minutes from Cannes. To get there, we took the road from Antibes and drove along the sea for 45 minutes. A magnificent road. The historic centre of Cagnes-sur-Mer is covered in old stonework with colourful bougainvillea and ivy. We took a leisurely 1-hour stroll along the Provençal alleyways, discovering old churches and other monuments steeped in history.
From the centre of Cagnes-sur-Mer we decided to walk up to the Renoir museum. The famous French Impressionist painter and sculptor lived in his home, the Domaine des Collettes, for more than 15 years. The artist of a thousand faces, from pastellist to engraver to lithographer, died in 1915. Today, his house has become a museum. Personal effects and paintings are on display for visitors who come from far and wide to see a Renoir painting up close. Allow around an hour for the whole tour.
It was lunchtime when we stumbled across La Mesitas, a small restaurant with a sunny terrace in the heart of Cagnes-sur-Mer. The menu is varied: bagels, French toast, toast and sandwiches, smoothies and iced tea. We recommend the pancakes, which are particularly delicious. Address: 7 Rue Jean Raymond Giacosa, 06800 Cagnes-sur-Mer Opening hours: 7am to 2pm every day except Thursday, closing time 12.30pm and closed on Mondays.
After a 30-minute drive, we arrived at the Saint-Joseph winery.
Julien, the owner, welcomes us with a smile. A former aeronautical engineer, he turned to wine and took over the estate when his father died. It's a small, family-run estate, a far cry from the big vineyards. His wines have been labelled organic and biodynamic since 2011. He gives us a tour of his estate, and takes the time to talk to us about the winemaking process and his love of wine.
Julien lets us taste the products of which he is so proud:
The wines were delicious, and we left with a few bottles to taste (in moderation!) before heading off to Grasse for the night, a 30-minute drive from the estate.
Don't forget to let Julien know by calling or sending an e-mail. Tastings are by appointment only.
For more information, visit the Domaine Saint-Jospeh website.
Cannes
Cannes
Grasse is the archetypal small Provencal town. Tucked away against the southern hills, colourful shutters and cobbled streets hide in the heart of the old town, and its cathedral, an ancient Roman Catholic edifice, can be admired without moderation. After a hearty breakfast at the hotel, we set off to explore the old centre of Grasse and the Musée de la Parfumerie. We spend 30 minutes at the Musée de la Parfumerie. In the perfume capital of the world, the museum traces the history of perfume around the world and through the centuries. We discover and understand how these delicate scents are made.
Opening times: 10 am to 6 pm, daily.
🍴 Les Delicatesses de Grasse
Small traditional bistro serving fine cuts of meat Address: 3 Pl. aux Aires, 06130 Grasse Hours: noon to 11pm, every day.
Before heading home, we're off to Château Cabran, a magnificent château with Provençal architecture. Renaud and Nathalie welcome us and show us around the family estate, which has been handed down from generation to generation for over 200 years.
Domaine Cabran produces wines of character, rich in the soul of the southern terroir.
Together, we taste wines from the estate's vintage collection:
We left with a few bottles as souvenirs.
For more information,visit the Château Cabran website.
On our last day, we discovered the town of Cannes. Much more than a gathering of photographers and glitterati, we were pleasantly surprised by the calm of this town on the Côte d'Azur.
The Suquet district, the historic centre, seduces us with its romance and history. The old port of Cannes, with its splendid view over the Mediterranean Sea, awakens in us a longing for travel and freedom. We spend the day wandering around this sunny town.
At the end of the day, when it's not so hot, we visit the Place de la Castre, home to the Château de la Castre and the church of Notre-Dame-d'Espérance, both of which date back to the 11th century. The château houses a museum on the art of primitive peoples from all over the world, an exhibition not to be missed during your stay in Cannes.
Cannes
